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Monasteries on the slopes of Popocatépetl facts for kids

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Earliest monasteries on the slopes of Popocatépetl
2006 03 19 Tepoztlan 21.JPG
View of the church façade of the monastery in Tepoztlán
Location Areas south and east of Popocatépetl, Mexico
Built 16th Century
Built for The Augustinians, the Franciscans and the Dominicans
Type Cultural
Criteria ii, iv
Designated 1994 (18th session)
Reference no. 702
Region Latin America and the Caribbean

The Earliest Monasteries on the Slopes of Popocatépetl (Spanish: Primeros Monasterios en las faldas del Popocatépetl) are sixteen old monasteries from the 1500s. They were built by three groups of friars: the Augustinians, the Franciscans, and the Dominicans. Their goal was to teach Christianity to people living south and east of the Popocatépetl volcano in central Mexico.

In 1994, UNESCO named these monasteries World Heritage Sites. This is because they were a great example for building early churches and monasteries. They also showed how to spread Christianity in New Spain (which is now Mexico) and other parts of Latin America. These monasteries often have a very big open space called an atrium in front of a church with one main room (a nave). They also have an open chapel, called a capilla abierta. The atrium was where the local people and the friars met. Church services for new converts were held outside in the atrium, not inside the church. This design was used in many other places in Mexico as the friars moved to new areas.

Today, all sixteen monasteries are open for visitors. Eleven are in northern Morelos, three are in the state of Puebla, and one is in Tlaxcala. The twelve in Morelos are even part of a special "Route of the Volcano" or "Route of the Monasteries" for tourists. In 2021, the Tlaxcala City Cathedral was added to the World Heritage Site list.

Exploring the Volcano Monasteries Region

Mexico-Popocatepetl
The Popocatépetl volcano seen from the Paso de Cortés.

This special World Heritage Site includes sixteen monasteries. Most of them are in the state of Morelos, south and east of Mexico City. Three are in the state of Puebla, and one is in Tlaxcala.

The monasteries in Morelos are found in towns like Atlatlahucan, Cuernavaca, Tetela del Volcán, Yautepec, Ocuituco, Tepoztlán, Tlayacapan, Totolapan, Yecapixtla, and Zacualpan de Amilpas. The three in Puebla are in Calpan, Huejotzingo, and Tochimilco. Many of these monasteries are located around the Popocatépetl volcano.

Even though Popocatépetl is an active volcano, its activity has not harmed the monasteries. Some have been damaged by earthquakes, though. The risk from the volcano is low for these monasteries and other old buildings nearby. This is because lava flows in this area are usually slow. Also, the buildings were not constructed in places where lava often runs.

Why These Monasteries Are World Heritage Sites

The UNESCO declared these sixteen monasteries a World Heritage Site in 1994. They are important because they set the example for how monasteries were built and how Christianity was spread across the Americas.

These buildings show how the first Franciscan, Dominican, and Augustinian missionaries used a special architectural style. This style included using large open outdoor spaces. This idea of open spaces in church and monastery design was then used throughout Mexico and parts of Latin America.

There's some debate about whether the monasteries were completely European in design. Some think they also used ideas from local Indigenous ceremonial spaces. However, the use of open chapels and "capillas posas" (small chapels in the corners of the atrium) in large atriums helped new Indigenous converts. These people were not used to going inside big enclosed buildings. The atrium became a key meeting place for the missionaries and the local people.

These sixteen monasteries were built right after the Spanish conquered the Aztec Empire. This was the very beginning of spreading Christianity in the area.

After being named a World Heritage Site, the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH) promised money to fix and protect eleven of the monasteries. Much of this money was used to fix problems caused by moisture in the walls. One of the first projects was to restore the paintings inside the Tetela del Volcán monastery. Another early project was to bring back the gardens and fields of the Atlatlahucan monastery. These fields now grow avocados and other crops. Selling these crops helps pay for the monasteries' upkeep.

More than 70% of the monasteries built in the 1500s are still in good shape. However, some people say that not enough money is given for their restoration. They say it's much less than what is spent on other famous places like the Basilica of Guadalupe. A lot of the work done has been on restoring the atrium areas, walkways for processions, and the atrium chapels. Another big effort is removing moss and plants growing on the buildings. This restoration work has even led to finding old murals again. But much more work still needs to be done.

To make the World Heritage monasteries in Morelos more famous, the state promotes them as the "Route of the Monasteries" or "Route of the Volcano." This route starts in Cuernavaca, where the monastery church is now the city's cathedral. It then goes through Tepoztlán, Oaxtepec, Tlayacapan, Totolapan, Atlatlahuacan, Yecapixtla, Ocuituco, Tetela del Volcán, and Hueyapan, ending in Zacualpan de Amilpas.

Features of the Monasteries

Atractiva arquitectura - panoramio
The capilla abierta (open chapel) of the Cathedral of the Assumption in Cuernavaca

These monasteries are World Heritage Sites because their design became a model for later monasteries and towns. They were built very strongly with thick walls and looked simple. Some even have stone merlons (like castle battlements) that make them look like forts. These were for defense, as the monks were entering Mesoamerican lands to introduce a new religion. Because of this, these churches and monasteries are sometimes called "fortress temples."

Most monasteries have a large atrium in front of the church, an open chapel, four small chapels in each corner of the atrium, an atrium cross, and Stations of the Cross on the atrium walls. They also have a main church with a roof and a cloister area for the monks.

Unlike churches built later, the atrium was very important in these early monasteries. They were first built to help spread Christianity. Each monastery had only a few monks but hundreds of new Indigenous converts. The atrium helped fit large numbers of people. Also, before the Spanish arrived, many local religious ceremonies were held outdoors. For spreading the faith, the atrium and its open chapel were built first.

The atriums are surrounded by low walls, usually less than five meters high. This made the area feel more private but still kept it outdoors. The open chapels were almost always built on the side of the main church, facing the atrium. Since most Indigenous people could not read or write, the churches and open chapels were painted with Bible stories. This helped teach people through pictures. The atrium walls often have marks for the Stations of the Cross and four corner chapels. These are called capillas posas. They were used during parades, especially during Corpus Christi, to hold the Host.

In the middle of the atrium, a large stone cross was placed. On the outside of these early churches, crosses almost always appear without the figure of Christ. This was because the friars did not want the local people to connect the old practice of human sacrifice to the new religion.

The large churches with roofs have only one main room. On one side, usually the south, is the cloister area for the monks. Most cloisters have or had murals, large gardens, and fountains. The decorations vary, often mixing different styles from Europe at the time. You can see rose windows like those on French cathedrals, doorways similar to those in Spain, and even Islamic-style triangular altars. Some hidden elements, like certain numbers important to native beliefs, can be found in the churches. It's not known if the friars allowed these or if they were added secretly.

History of the Monasteries

Tochimilco portada
View of the complex at Tochimilco

These monasteries are a key part of how Christianity first came to Mexico. Hernán Cortés invited the Franciscans to come first. Soon after, the Dominicans and Augustinians arrived. After setting up in Mexico City and the Valley of Mexico, they moved south and east of the volcano to spread their faith.

Important missionaries included Juan de Tecto, Juan de Ayora, and Pedro de Gante. Pedro de Gante even learned Nahuatl to talk with the local people. The Franciscans built the first monasteries in 1524, including those in Huejotzingo, Cuernavaca, Calpan, and Tochimilco. The Dominicans followed in 1526, building in Oaxtepec, Tepoztlan, Tetela del Volcán, and Hueyapan. The Augustinians arrived in 1533. They founded monasteries in Ocuituco, Totolapan, Yecapixtla, Tlayacapan, Atlatlahuacan, and Zacualpan de Amilpas. Later, these same monasteries sent missionaries to other parts of New Spain, like Guerrero, Oaxaca, Chiapas, and Guatemala.

The monasteries became the main centers for the towns that the Spanish founded or rebuilt early in the colonial period. The local Indigenous people were settled around them. The monasteries also served as early hospitals, schools, and places to store food and water. Aqueducts often brought water directly to them. The Augustinians did more than just spread religion. They set up the first schools for Indigenous people to study European subjects. The Dominicans focused more on helping the areas they worked in grow economically, using the fertile land. They were more active in higher altitude areas.

Some monasteries, like the one in Tlayacapan, were used as army camps during the Mexican Revolution. Soldiers' drawings from that time have been found there. Others, like Yecapixtla, also have recent drawings because there isn't enough security.

Individual Monasteries: A Closer Look

CloisterBellYeca
View of the cloister and bell tower of the monastery in Yecapixtla

The monastery of La Asunción in Cuernavaca is now known as the city's Cathedral. It was started by the Franciscans. At first, only Indigenous nobles and Spanish people could enter its grounds. It was the fifth building in New Spain ordered by Toribio de Benavente Motolinia. This cathedral is the only one of the original fourteen monasteries that has changed a lot over time. Because Cuernavaca was an important city and the church was a main religious center, the church and its grounds were changed many times. The big open chapel was turned into a doorway, and the atrium chapels were made bigger into churches. The last major changes happened in the late 1970s and early 1980s. During this time, specialists restored its murals and added modern parts, especially to the main altar. The cloister still has many frescos (wall paintings). Some show missionaries from New Spain in the Philippines and Japan. The open chapel is often used for weddings.

The monastery of La Natividad de Nuestra Señora in Tepoztlán is on a hill in the Tepozteco Valley. It was built between 1550 and 1564 and still stands tall over the town. It started with only five Dominican friars. The large atrium has a big stone cross with symbols of the Passion of Christ. There is an open chapel and corner chapels (capillas posas), but most of these are now in ruins. The cloister has decorative bands with the coat of arms of the Dominican order. You can see a mix of Indigenous and Catholic beliefs here. For example, there's an angel with European features but with eagle's wings, like those on the Aztec god Quetzalcoatl. Inside, there's a fresco of a xoloitzcuintle dog (a Mexican hairless dog) with a torch in its mouth. The walls have a border of squash flowers and roses, surrounded by precious stones, including a local one called "chalchihuite." The plaza in front of the monastery in Tepoztlán is busy with a tianguis (market). It sells everything from food to New Age items.

BautistaFacadeTlayacapan2
Facade of the monastery church in Tlayacapán

The monastery of Tlayacapan was built by the Augustinians between 1554 and 1572. It has one of the largest churches in Morelos state. Its style is mostly Renaissance, but it also has Gothic parts. Here too, you can see a mix of cultures, with suns and moons in the church's decorations. The open chapel and cloister area have been turned into a museum run by a local group. This museum has the best-preserved black-and-white murals from the complex. It also has old Indigenous and colonial items, and some mummified remains from the 1700s. The preserved murals cover over 2,700 square meters. They show figures and scenes like the Dream of Saint Joseph, Catherine of Siena, and the Presentation of Christ at the Temple.

The monastery of San Guillermo Abad is in Totolapán. It was built by the Augustinians in 1553. Its cloister (the covered walkway) is small, even though its walls and supports are very thick. The corner chapels in the atrium are still complete. The church has several important oil paintings and an old organ in the choir area. There's also a special two-color frieze (a long band of decoration) in a room on the first floor of the cloister, near the front of the church. This and other murals in the inner walkways of the cloister have been recently restored. Stone arches and pillars are decorated with small stones set in cement.

The Dominican monastery of Santo Domingo in Oaxtepec is on a steep hill, above an old Indigenous ceremonial platform. Because of this, the atrium is not in front of the church and is higher than the church. Inside the church, Gothic arches hold up the roof. The ceiling is decorated with flower designs. There are two wooden altarpieces from the 1600s. The monastery of Oaxtepec has pillars in the cloister with images of saints. Its arched ceilings are decorated with repeating designs like fleur-de-lis. The murals here have traces of blue color, which is rare, but most have lost their color completely. Most of the murals that have disappeared were destroyed by moisture, mainly because the roof's drainage was not maintained. The monastery's cloister has become a museum, but only three of its halls are open to the public. It has a small collection of old Indigenous items and local animals, insects, and plants.

The monastery of San Mateo Apostol in Atlatlahuacán was built by the Augustinians around 1570. It stands on the remains of an old Indigenous temple, on the highest part of the town. The Stations of the Cross in the atrium are shown by small chapels on the outside of the atrium wall. It has two roofed chapels in its atrium. One of these has a mural of the family tree of Saint Augustine. The front of the church is very tall, which is common in Augustinian buildings, reaching about 50 meters high. Fresco paintings covered most of the inside of the complex. The ceilings mix Moorish elements with those of the Italian Renaissance. Confession booths were built in an "s" shape in the wall between the church and the cloister. In the cloister, a main attraction is a ceiling vault on the ground floor. It is decorated with a chain made of images of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The upper level is where the parish priest lives.

The monastery of Santiago Apostol in Ocuituco dates from 1534. It was the first Augustinian monastery on the American mainland. Fray Juan de Zumárraga held its first mass in 1534. It was a center for spreading Christianity and also a training place for monks. The monastery has a ceiling vault on the lower floor of the cloister. It uses browns, whites, and greens in its designs. The chapel for pilgrims is closed, unlike in other monasteries, but the rest of the complex is open to visitors. The buildings have been changed a bit since they were built. However, one well-preserved part is its 16th-century stone fountain, the oldest of all the World Heritage Site monasteries. This fountain is a copy of one found in the Alhambra in Córdoba, Spain. It has six sandstone lions facing the center, carved by Indigenous artists. Outside the cloister, there's another fountain, once called the Fountain of the Mermaids, but it's now badly damaged. Both fountains provided water to the community, flowing from Popocatépetl.

Fachada Principal Ex-Convento Hueyapan
The patio and façade of the ex-convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Hueyapan

The monastery of Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Hueyapan is the highest of the monasteries in Morelos state. Its climate is cold compared to most of the state. It is one of the monasteries closest to the volcano. It was founded by the Dominicans. However, its cloister was built with adobe (mud brick) and wood with a tile roof, instead of stone. It fell apart quite quickly due to the weather and was abandoned. It remains mostly closed today. Only the atrium area is open to visitors, and it closes by 1 PM each day. The simple front of the main church still stands. It has a notable Baroque-style niche (a shallow recess in a wall). You can also see some of its remaining murals.

Ex convento de San Juan Bautista de Tetela del Volcán - 3
View of the Atrium of the ex-convent with one of the frescos in the foreground.

The monastery of San Juan Bautista in Tetela del Volcán was built by the Dominicans in the first half of the 1500s. Even Hernán Cortés visited it. It is at a high altitude near the volcano, surrounded by pine forests, in a relatively cold climate. The outside has arches that surround the complex, but they are partly hidden by trees. The upper parts of the walls around the complex are covered in paint. The lower floor of the cloister has figures painted in the arches and walls. Many are of Augustinian monks. In the arched ceilings over the walkways, there are many cherubs (angel-like figures) defeating evil spirits, and some are even fighting each other. A unique architectural feature is the Moorish-style wood-beam roof in the sacristy (a room where sacred items are kept). A crafts market is held here every Wednesday. The atrium has a series of very high-quality frescos, painted by a local Indigenous artist in the 1500s. They were restored in 2008.

The Augustinian monastery of San Juan Bautista in Yecapixtla was designed by Jorge de Ávila and Jeronimo de San Esteban. Their plans were based on the Metropolitan Cathedral in Mexico City. The atrium wall has 365 triangular sculptures, similar to those found in ancient Indigenous temples called teocallis. It also has merlons, like a castle. The atrium still has its corner chapels and its central stone cross. The front of the church is seen as one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture in New Spain. However, it also has a Gothic-style rose window. The cloister is large and well-lit. But it only has one floor at the back, whereas cloisters usually have two floors all around. The front of the cloister does have two floors. In the doorway for pilgrims, there is an image of the Virgin Mary surrounded by cherubs. This image has a blue background, a color rarely used in church decorations of this time. The ceiling vault on the lower floor of the cloister is at least 10 meters high. It has remnants of murals, such as Stations of the Cross and scenes from the daily life of Augustinian friars. It also contains a fountain from the 1600s.

The monastery of La Concepción in Zacualpán was built by the Augustinians. It has kept much of its original design, including the layout of the gardens and homes around it. Water here comes from the melting snows of Popocatépetl. The baptistery (where baptisms happen) has an arch. In its wall are the remains of a painted altarpiece. Its Rosario Chapel has other small, high-quality Baroque altarpieces. There is a stone baptismal font made by Indigenous hands. There are also a series of chapels in the atrium from the 1700s. The monastery also has artworks from the same time period.

Portada del Convento Franciscano Huejotzingo ( C Garza)
Portal of the convent of Huejotzingo

Huejotzingo is the oldest of the fifteen monasteries, built in 1524. It is also one of the most impressive because many of its original parts are well preserved. The atrium has four corner chapels that are some of the most detailed of their kind from colonial Mexico. They are beautifully carved from sandstone. The main altarpiece is from the 1500s, and only three others in Mexico are as old. The atrium cross has a detailed crown of thorns. The remains of the aqueduct can be found on one of the atrium walls.

Calpan was taken over by Cortés himself in 1522. The Franciscans arrived here to build the San Andrés Apostol monastery complex in 1548, led by Juan de Alameda. The capillas posas (corner chapels) were started in 1555. The front of the church is in the Plateresque style, with some Moorish influence. It is decorated with Isabelina volutes (spiral shapes) on the entrance arch, with shells on top. There is one bell tower on the right side. Its single main room is wide. The choir area was initially just for the friars so they wouldn't be seen by the general public. The cloister is now a museum, with its entrance through the open chapel.

The chapels, built of pink sandstone in the corners of the atrium, are famous for their finely carved reliefs. The first chapel is next to the cloister and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It has murals with carvings about Mary's life and suffering. The second, to the left of the first, is for Saint Francis of Assisi, with similar pictures about him. The third is for the Archangel Michael, and the last for John the Baptist, following the same pattern. These detailed chapels make this monastery unique in Mexico and are why it was included in the World Heritage list.

The Asunción de Nuestra Señora monastery in Tochimilco gets water from the volcano through a long aqueduct. This brings water directly into the building and to a 16th-century fountain in the town plaza. The inner walls of the atrium have special spots for each of the Stations of the Cross. This monastery was damaged by an earthquake in 1999, which harmed its walls and arched ceilings. But this damage has been fixed during restoration work done between 2001 and 2003. The monastery also hosts temporary exhibits, like one about old maps of Tochimilco, with maps borrowed from the Archivo de Indias in Seville, Spain.

See also

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