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East Lothian

Aest Lowden
Lodainn an Ear

Haddingtonshire
East Lothian in Scotland.svg
Flag of East Lothian
Coat of arms of East Lothian
Coat of arms
Official logo of East Lothian
Council logo
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Country Scotland
Lieutenancy area East Lothian
Admin HQ Haddington
Government
 • Type Unitary authority
 • Body East Lothian Council
Area
 • Total 262.2 sq mi (679.2 km2)
Area rank Ranked 18th
Population
 (2020)
 • Total 105,790
 • Rank Ranked 21st
 • Density 403.41/sq mi (155.757/km2)
ONS code S12000010
ISO 3166 code GB-ELN
Largest city Musselburgh

East Lothian (/ˈlðiən/; Scots: Aest Lowden; Scottish Gaelic: Lodainn an Ear) is one of the 32 council areas of Scotland, as well as a historic county, registration county and lieutenancy area. The county was called Haddingtonshire until 1921.

In 1975, the historic county was incorporated for local government purposes into Lothian Region as East Lothian District, with some slight alterations of its boundaries. The Local Government etc. (Scotland) Act 1994 later created East Lothian as one of 32 modern council areas. East Lothian lies south of the Firth of Forth in the eastern central Lowlands of Scotland. It borders Edinburgh to the west, Midlothian to the south-west and the Scottish Borders to the south. Its administrative centre and former county town is Haddington while the largest town is Musselburgh.

Haddingtonshire has ancient origins and is named in a charter of 1139 as Hadintunschira and in another of 1141 as Hadintunshire. Three of the county's towns were designated as royal burghs: Haddington, Dunbar, and North Berwick.

As with the rest of Lothian, it formed part of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Bernicia and later the Kingdom of Northumbria. Popular legend suggests that it was at a battle between the Picts and Angles in the East Lothian village of Athelstaneford in 823 that the flag of Scotland was conceived. From the 10th century, Lothian transferred from the Kingdom of England to the authority of the monarchs of Scotland. It was a cross-point in battles between England and Scotland and later the site of a significant Jacobite victory against Government forces in the Battle of Prestonpans. In the 19th century, the county is mentioned in the Gazetteer for Scotland as chiefly agricultural, with farming, fishing and coal-mining forming significant parts of the local economy.

History

Early history

Following the end of the Roman occupation of Britain, Lothian was populated by Brythonic-speaking Ancient Britons and formed part of the kingdom of the Gododdin, within the Hen Ogledd or Old North. In the 7th century, all of the Gododdin's territory fell to the Angles, with Lothian becoming part of the kingdom of Bernicia.

Bernicia united into the Kingdom of Northumbria which itself became part of the early Kingdom of England. Lothian came under the control of the Scottish monarchy in the 10th century.

The earliest reference to the shire of Haddington, or Haddingtonshire, occurred in the 12th century, in two charters issued by King David. The shire covered the eastern part of Lothian.

Medieval and early modern period

Dirleton S
Dirleton Castle

Haddingtonshire was heavily involved in several medieval and early modern conflicts and several fortified castles and buildings such as Dunbar Castle, Tantallon Castle and Dirleton Castle date from this period.

In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Palace of Haddington was one of the seats of the Kings of Scotland. King William the Lion of Scotland used the palace from time to time and it was the birthplace of Alexander II in 1198. The palace and town were burned and pillaged in 1216, by an English army under the command of King John of England. In 1296, the Battle of Dunbar was a decisive victory for the forces of Edward I of England against the forces of John Balliol, the Scottish king who was Edward's vassal.

Haddingtonshire was also the site of conflict during the war of the Rough Wooing, with many houses and villages burnt by the English in May 1544 after the sacking of Edinburgh, the Scottish defeat at the battle of Pinkie, Dunbar Castle burnt in 1548, and the siege of Haddington. Haddingtonshire lairds supported the English cause, including John Cockburn of Ormiston, Alexander Crichton of Brunstane, and Regent Arran demolished their houses.

During the War of the Three Kingdoms, another Battle of Dunbar took place in 1650 between Scottish Covenanter forces and the English Parliamentary forces under Oliver Cromwell. The Parliamentary forces were victorious and able to march on to take Edinburgh.

Following the Restoration of the monarchy, Glorious Revolution and Acts of Union, Jacobite forces conflicted with Government forces, with the main conflict taking place as part of the 1715 Rising and 1745 Rising. Under the command of Sir John Cope, the British Army met with the Jacobites under Charles Edward Stuart at the Battle of Prestonpans in the west of the county in September 1745, with the Jacobite side gaining a significant victory before being defeated at the Battle of Culloden in April 1746.

Modern history

Haddington Sheriff Court (geograph 3774105)
County Buildings in Court Street, Haddington, the former headquarters of East Lothian County Council

Haddingtonshire County Council was created in 1890 under the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889, which established elected county councils across Scotland, taking over most of the functions of the Commissioners of Supply, which had been the main administrative body of the shire since 1667. The county council was based at County Buildings in Court Street, Haddington, which had been built in 1833 and also served as the county's sheriff court.

In April 1921 the county council voted to request a change of the county's name from Haddingtonshire to "East Lothian". The government agreed and brought the change into effect as part of the East Lothian County Buildings Order Confirmation Act 1921, which received royal assent on 8 November 1921. The act also transferred ownership of the County Buildings to the county council.

In 1975 under the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973, Scotland's county councils were dissolved and a new system of regional and district councils was created. East Lothian District was created within the wider Lothian region. The district comprised the historic county of East Lothian plus the burgh of Musselburgh and the parish of Inveresk (which included Wallyford and Whitecraig) from the county of Midlothian.

When further reforms in 1996 moved Scotland to a system of 32 unitary local authorities, the modern council area of East Lothian was created.

Geography

East Lothian is predominantly rural. It has 40 miles (64 km) of coastline where the towns of Musselburgh, Prestonpans, Cockenzie and Port Seton, Longniddry, Gullane, North Berwick and Dunbar lie along the coast of the Firth of Forth. The coast has several headlands and bays, most notably Gosford Bay, Aberlady Bay, Gullane Point, Sandy Hirst, Tyne Mouth, Belhaven Bay, Barns Ness, Chapel Point and Torness Point. There are several small islands off the coast north of North Berwick, the largest of these being Fidra, Lamb, Craigleith and Bass Rock.

Only two towns are landlocked, Tranent and Haddington. To the south are the Lammermuir Hills along the boundary with Berwickshire; it is here that Meikle Says Law, the highest point in the county at 535 metres (1,755 ft), can be found. The River Tyne flows through Haddington and several of East Lothian's villages, reaching the Firth of Forth near Belhaven. The River Esk flows through Inveresk and Musselburgh where it empties at the north of the town into the Firth of Forth. Major bodies of water include Pressmennan Lake, the Whiteadder Reservoir, Hopes Reservoir, Stobshiel Reservoir and Lammerloch Reservoir.

Transport

Road

The A1 road travels through East Lothian where it meets the Scottish Borders southbound and Edinburgh northbound. The A1 throughout East Lothian is dual carriageway and major junctions include Dunbar, Haddington, Tranent, Prestonpans and Musselburgh.

Starting in Leith, the A199 road also travels through East Lothian beginning at Musselburgh and passing through Wallyford, Tranent, Macmerry and Haddington before joining the A1 in West Barns.

Some non-primary routes in East Lothian are the A198, A1087, A6093 and A6137 roads.

Public transport

Dunbar railway station, East Lothian - view south
Dunbar railway station, before a bridge was built over the tracks and a platform on the other side.

East Lothian is served by eight railway stations: East Linton (opened December 2023), Dunbar and Musselburgh on the East Coast Main Line; and North Berwick, Drem, Longniddry, Prestonpans and Wallyford on the North Berwick Line. Rail service operators which travel through and stop at stations in the area include: ScotRail on both lines; and CrossCountry and London North Eastern Railway on the East Coast Main Line.

Bus operators in East Lothian are: Lothian Buses and its subsidiary East Coast Buses, Eve Coaches of Dunbar, Prentice of Haddington and Borders Buses. East Coast Buses is the main bus service provider connecting the towns and villages of East Lothian to Edinburgh. The company has depots in North Berwick and Musselburgh.

Demography

The population of East Lothian as of 2019 is 105,790. This is an increase of over 6,000 since 2011 and this is projected to reach over 120,000 by the 2030s. The fastest growing district in East Lothian is the Tranent, Wallyford and Macmerry ward which is expected to see its population of just over 20,000 increase to just under 30,000 by 2026.

Ethnicity

Ethnic Group 2001 2011 2022
Number % Number % Number %
White: Total 89,433 99.27% 98,011 98.29% 108,844 96.94%
White: Scottish 79,942 88.74% 85,347 85.59% 89,252 79.49%
White: Other British 7,708 8.56% 9,244 9.27% 13,508 12.03%
White: Irish 547 0.61% 870 0.87% 1,186 1.06%
White: Gypsy/Traveller 13 61 0.05%
White: Polish 811 0.81% 1,492 1.33%
White: Other 1,236 1.37% 1,726 1.73% 3,341 2.98%
Asian, Asian Scottish or Asian British: Total 319 0.35% 955 0.96% 1,368 1.22%
Asian, Asian Scottish or Asian British: Indian 63 0.07% 275 0.28% 318 0.28%
Asian, Asian Scottish or Asian British: Pakistani 110 0.12% 288 0.29% 436 0.39%
Asian, Asian Scottish or Asian British: Bangladeshi 14 43 28
Asian, Asian Scottish or Asian British: Chinese 95 0.11% 209 0.21% 266 0.24%
Asian, Asian Scottish or Asian British: Asian Other 37 140 0.14% 323 0.29%
Black, Black Scottish or Black British 18
African: Total 31 179 0.18% 315 0.28%
African: African, African Scottish or African British 177 0.18% 38
African: Other African 2 279 0.25%
Caribbean or Black: Total 107 0.11% 99 0.09%
Caribbean 30 59 0.06% 46
Black 29 10
Caribbean or Black: Other 19 43
Mixed or multiple ethnic groups: Total 176 0.20% 363 0.36% 1,164 1.04%
Other: Total 81 0.09% 102 0.10% 496 0.44%
Other: Arab 74 0.07% 153 0.14%
Other: Any other ethnic group 28 339 0.30%
Total: 90,088 100.00% 99,717 100.00% 112,284 100.00%

Places of interest

Settlements

Largest settlements by population:

Settlement Population (2020)
Musselburgh 21100
Tranent 11910
Prestonpans 10460
Haddington 10360
Dunbar 10270
North Berwick 7840
Cockenzie 5370
Wallyford 3370
Gullane 2810
Longniddry 2340
  • Aberlady
  • Athelstaneford
  • Auldhame
  • Ballencrieff
  • Bara
  • Belhaven
  • Biel
  • Bilsdean
  • Bolton
  • Broxburn
  • Canty Bay
  • Cockenzie
  • Dirleton
  • Drem
  • Dunbar
  • Dunglass
  • East Fortune
  • East Linton
  • East Saltoun
  • Elphinstone
  • Fenton Barns
  • Fisherrow (historically within Midlothian)
  • Garvald
  • Gifford
  • Gladsmuir
  • Glenkinchie
  • Gullane
  • Haddington
  • Humbie
  • Innerwick
  • Inveresk (historically within Midlothian)
  • Kingston
  • Longniddry
  • Luffness
  • Macmerry
  • Markle
  • Monktonhall (historically within Midlothian)
  • Musselburgh (historically within Midlothian)
  • North Berwick
  • Oldhamstocks
  • Ormiston
  • Peaston
  • Pencaitland
  • Phantassie
  • Port Seton
  • Preston
  • Prestonpans
  • Samuelston
  • Scoughall
  • Spittal
  • Spott
  • Stenton
  • Tranent
  • Tyninghame
  • Wallyford (historically within Midlothian)
  • West Barns
  • West Saltoun
  • Whitecraig (historically within Midlothian)
  • Whitekirk and Tyninghame
  • Whittingehame

Civil parishes

EAST LOTHIAN (Haddingtonshire)
East Lothian or Haddingtonshire Civil Parish map.

In 1894, John Martine published Reminiscences and Notices of Ten Parishes of the County of Haddington.

Education

Pinkie01
Loretto School's Pinkie House

There are a range of schools in the county, including six state secondaries: Dunbar Grammar School, Knox Academy (formerly the Grammar School) in Haddington, Musselburgh Grammar School, North Berwick High School, Preston Lodge High School in Prestonpans and Ross High School in Tranent.

There are two independent schools in the county. Loretto School is a day and boarding school in Musselburgh founded in 1827 and Belhaven Hill School, established in 1923 is a smaller preparatory school in Dunbar also providing boarding.

In 2007, Queen Margaret University began its move to a new, purpose-built campus in Musselburgh within East Lothian, providing it with its first university.

Culture and community

Symbols

In November 2017, a county flag competition was launched in East Lothian to register an official flag of East Lothian. Anyone willing to enter this competition was allowed to enter, which resulted in 623 entries to the competition. The end of the entry submission time was the 28th of February 2018. Four final flag designs will be placed in a vote to the residents of East Lothian. In December 2018 the winning design was announced, designed by Archie Martin, a local man from Musselburgh and residing in Gifford who had worked for the council for 23 years. Martin died in July 2018. The flag features a saltire representing East Lothian as the birthplace of Scotland's flag. A gold cross signifies the wealth of East Lothian's farmlands and reputation as the granary of Scotland with a lion in the centre representing the Haddington lion along with blue stripes to represent the rivers Esk and Tyne.

Local media

East Lothian is served by a local paid-for weekly newspapers, the East Lothian Courier.

The East Lothian Courier (often locally "The Courier") began as the Haddingtonshire Courier in 1859, before changing its name in 1971. It was owned by D&J Croal, based in Haddington, until its purchase by the Dunfermline Press Group in 2004. It is now owned by Newsquest

The East Lothian News was first published in 1971, as part of Scottish County Press Group, with editorial offices in Dalkeith and printing at Bonnyrigg (both in Midlothian). The Scottish County Press Group was acquired by Regional Independent Media in 2000, which was in turn bought by Johnston Press in 2002. The East Lothian News closed in 2015.

There are two local community radio stations in East Lothian, broadcasting on FM and online. East Coast FM, based in Haddington, has been broadcasting since 2009. Radio Saltire, formerly East Lothian FM, is now based in Tranent.

Notable people (by date of death)

A number of sports personalities also have links with East Lothian:

  • Willie Anderson, golfer, four times U.S. Open Golf Champion, 1901, 1903–05
  • Ian Black, professional footballer
  • Callum Booth, professional footballer
  • Billy Brown, football coach
  • Kenny Miller, professional footballer
  • Colin Nish, professional footballer
  • Jim Calder rugby union player
  • Gary Anderson, Darts player
  • Andrew Driver, professional footballer
  • Danny Handling, professional footballer
  • Jason Holt, Professional footballer
  • David Huish, professional golfer
  • Allan Jacobsen, rugby union player
  • Jim Jefferies, football manager
  • John McGlynn, football manager
  • Catriona Matthew, golfer
  • Mathew Dawson, racehorse trainer
  • Euan Burton, judoka and 2012 Olympics contender
  • Finlay Calder, rugby union player
  • Ross Muir, professional snooker player
  • Scott Murray, rugby union player
  • Garry O'Connor, professional footballer
  • Willie Ormond, footballer and manager
  • Jock Taylor, World Champion motorcycle sidecar racer
  • Ben Sayers, professional golfer & club maker
  • John White, footballer
  • Willie Wood (bowler), professional bowler
  • Dean Brett, footballer
  • Josh Taylor, boxer

Freedom of the County

The following people and military units have received the Freedom of the County of East Lothian.


Individuals

Military Units

  • 1st Battalion The Royal Scots Borderers: 2012.
  • E Squadron The Scottish and North Irish Yeomanry: 6 July 2019.

See also

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