John Day Fossil Beds National Monument facts for kids

Quick facts for kids John Day Fossil Beds National Monument
IUCN Category V (Protected Landscape/Seascape)
Sheep Rock near sunset
Location	Oregon, United States
Area	14,062 acres (56.91 km2)
Elevation	2,244 ft (684 m)
Established	October 8, 1975
Named for	the John Day River, which was named for early 19th-century fur trader John Day
Visitors	210,000 in 2016
Governing body	National Park Service
Website	John Day Fossil Beds National Monument
U.S. National Natural Landmark
Designated:	1966

The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is a special place in central Oregon, USA. It is managed by the National Park Service. This park is famous for its amazing fossils. You can find ancient plants and mammals here. These fossils show what life was like from about 45 million to 5 million years ago.

The monument has three separate areas: Sheep Rock, Painted Hills, and Clarno. Together, they cover about 13,944 acres (5,643 ha) of land. This land includes dry shrublands, river areas, and colorful badlands. In 2016, about 210,000 people visited the park. They came to enjoy nature or to see the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center.

Long ago, before Europeans arrived, Sahaptin people lived in the John Day basin. They hunted, fished, and gathered food. In 1864, Thomas Condon, a missionary and amateur geologist, found important fossils here. His discoveries made the area famous worldwide. Because of these fossils, parts of the basin became a National Monument in 1975.

The monument is about 2,200 feet (670 m) high. It has a dry climate. Summer temperatures can reach 90 °F (32 °C), while winter temperatures drop below freezing. Many types of plants grow here, from willow trees by the river to cacti on rocky hills. Over 50 kinds of birds live here or pass through. You might also see elk, raccoons, coyotes, and voles. Many reptiles, fish, and butterflies also call this semi-desert home.

Exploring the Park: Geography

The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument has three main parts. These are the Sheep Rock, Painted Hills, and Clarno units. They are all in the John Day River basin in central Oregon. The park units have hills, deep valleys, and rocky areas with fossils. The land here ranges from 2,000 to 4,500 feet (610 to 1,370 m) high.

Clarno Unit map

The Clarno Unit is the farthest west. It covers about 1,969 acres (797 ha). You can find it about 18 miles (29 km) west of Fossil. The Painted Hills Unit is in the middle. It covers about 3,132 acres (1,267 ha). This unit is about 9 miles (14 km) northwest of Mitchell. Both the Clarno and Painted Hills units are in Wheeler County.

The Sheep Rock Unit is the largest, with 8,843 acres (3,579 ha). It is along Oregon Route 19 and the John Day River. This unit is mostly in Grant County. The Sheep Rock Unit has smaller areas like Picture Gorge and Blue Basin. Some of these areas are separated by private farms and ranches.

Painted Hills Unit map

The main visitor center is in the Sheep Rock Unit. It is 122 miles (196 km) from Bend. The distance between the park units can be long. For example, it's about 45 miles (72 km) from Sheep Rock to Painted Hills.

The John Day River flows through the monument. It is a branch of the Columbia River. Other smaller streams like Rock Creek and Bridge Creek also flow into the John Day River.

A Look Back in Time: History

Long ago, Native American groups lived in north-central Oregon. These included the Umatilla, Wasco, and Warm Springs tribes. They were hunter-gatherers. They found food like elk, berries, and salmon. Researchers have found 36 old sites in the monument area. These include rock shelters and cairns. The most important are the Picture Gorge pictographs. These are ancient rock drawings in the Sheep Rock Unit.

Most non-native people did not explore the John Day basin until the mid-1800s. Lewis and Clark saw the John Day River in 1805 but did not explore it. Later, fur traders like Peter Skene Ogden and John Work traveled along the river.

In the 1840s, many settlers moved west on the Oregon Trail. They were looking for new land. After gold was found in the John Day basin, some moved to eastern Oregon. They started farms and ranches. A supply route from The Dalles helped them settle. Over time, Native Americans were moved to reservations.

Thomas Condon, a key figure in the monument's history

In 1864, soldiers found fossils south of the John Day basin. They showed them to Thomas Condon. He was a pastor and geologist. Condon realized how important these fossils were. He found more rich fossil beds in 1865. His discoveries made scientists around the world interested. In 1872, Condon became Oregon's first state geologist. Fossils from the area were sent to museums everywhere. By 1900, over 100 books and articles were written about the John Day Fossil Beds.

The John Day basin was very remote. Not many settlers came at first. Frank Butler built a cabin in 1877. In 1881, Eli Casey Officer started grazing sheep. Later, James and Elizabeth Cant bought land and started a large ranch.

The Cant Ranch House in 2011

Scientists like John C. Merriam wanted to protect the area. In the 1930s, Oregon bought land for state parks. These parks later became part of the national monument. In 1974, Congress decided to create the national monument. President Gerald R. Ford signed the order. The monument officially opened on October 8, 1975.

The Cant Ranch House became a historic site in 1984. It served as the park headquarters. In 2005, the lower floor opened to the public. It shows the history of the area. Also in 2005, the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center opened. This museum has fossil displays and a lab where you can see scientists working.

In 2011, the park added webcams at Sheep Rock. One shows the paleontology lab. The other shows Sheep Rock itself. The park is also working to be more eco-friendly. A new ranger house in the Painted Hills uses solar power.

Amazing Fossils: Geology and Paleontology

The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is a great place to learn about Earth's past. The rocks here tell a story of millions of years. About 44 million years ago, volcanoes erupted. They sent out lava and mudflows. These flows trapped plants and animals. Their remains became the fossils you see in the Clarno Unit.

The Clarno Nut Beds have fossils of tropical nuts, fruits, and seeds. You can find palm leaves and avocado trees. This shows that the climate was much warmer and wetter back then. Large animals like brontotheres and amynodonts lived here. There were also predators like Patriofelis.

Later, about 36 million years ago, new volcanoes erupted. These were the John Day volcanoes. They released huge amounts of ash and dust. This ash covered and preserved plants and animals. The ash layers changed over time, creating different colors. The red ash in the Painted Hills Unit is an example.

The John Day Strata have many fossils. Over 100 kinds of mammals are found here. These include ancient dogs, cats, horses, and camels. You can also find turtles and large pigs. More than 60 plant types are fossilized. These include hydrangea, peas, and pines. A special fossil is the Metasequoia (dawn redwood). This tree was thought to be extinct until it was found alive in China.

After more erosion, lava flows covered the area. This happened between 17 and 12 million years ago. These lava flows are called the Picture Gorge Basalt.

Then, ash from the Cascade Range volcanoes fell. This created the Mascall Formation. Here, you can find fossils of horses, camels, and rhinoceroses. Bears, deer, and sloths also lived here. These animals lived in open woodlands about 15 to 12 million years ago. Fossils of oak, sycamore, and maple trees show the cooler climate.

The last big eruption was about 7 million years ago. This formed the Rattlesnake Formation. It has fossils of mastodons, camels, and ancient dogs. Recently, two fossilized beaver teeth were found here. They are the oldest beaver fossils in North America. These teeth are now on display at the Condon Center.

Fossil preparation in the laboratory at the Condon Center

The monument has many well-preserved fossils. They give us a detailed look at life over 40 million years. Studying these fossils helps us understand Earth's past climates. It also helps us learn about evolution.

Paleontologists at the monument find and collect fossil rocks. They take them to the lab at the visitor center. There, they clean and prepare the fossils. Then, the fossils are stored safely for research. These scientists also manage the fossil museum.

Weather in the Park: Climate

The monument gets 9 to 16 inches (230 to 410 mm) of rain or snow each year. This is because of the "rain shadow" effect from nearby mountains.

In Mitchell, near the Painted Hills Unit, July and August are the warmest months. Highs average 86 °F (30 °C). January is the coldest month, with highs around 42 °F (6 °C). The highest temperature ever recorded was 107 °F (42 °C). The lowest was −27 °F (−33 °C). May usually gets the most rain.

Life in the Park: Biology

Plants of the Monument: Flora

Applegate's Indian paintbrush

The monument has over 80 types of soil. This helps many different plants grow. Plants here are adapted to the dry conditions. You can find willows near the river. On dry, rocky hills, you might see hedgehog cactus. A special black crust on the soil helps plants. It holds water and adds nutrients. This crust is made of algae, lichens, and bacteria. Some areas have very few plants. This is because the soil lacks nutrients or is too steep.

Native grasses grow well here. But they face competition from invasive plants. Some native grasses include basin wildrye and Idaho fescue.

Trees like willows and ponderosa pines grow near streams. Bushes like serviceberry are found where moisture collects. Rabbitbrush can survive in dry areas. Sagebrush and shadscale are also common. Western juniper trees have deep roots. They can take over areas if there are no fires. The park service sometimes uses controlled fires to help native grasses grow.

Wildflowers bloom in spring and early summer. You might see pincushions and golden bee plant. At the Clarno and Sheep Rock units, look for Munro's globemallow and Applegate's Indian paintbrush.

Animals of the Monument: Fauna

The common nighthawk is one of more than 50 species of birds seen in the monument.

Birds are often seen in the monument. Over 50 species have been spotted. These include red-tailed hawks and great horned owls. Geese nest here in summer. Sandhill cranes and swans fly over during migration. California quail and mourning doves are also common. Near the visitor center, you might see rufous hummingbirds and western meadowlarks.

Large animals in the park include elk, deer, and cougar. Beaver, otter, and raccoons live near the river. Coyotes and badgers are also found here. Predators hunt smaller animals like rabbits and mice. Bighorn sheep were brought back to the Sheep Rock Unit in 2010.

Many snakes and lizards live in the monument. Common lizards include southern alligator and western fence lizards. Snakes like garter and gopher snakes are found in valleys. Rattlesnakes are venomous but usually try to avoid people. You can also find western toads and Pacific tree frogs near water.

The great spangled fritillary is one of 55 species of butterfly recorded in the park.

A survey found 55 types of butterflies in the monument. These include the orange sulphur and monarch.

The John Day River is the longest undammed river that flows into the Columbia River. Chinook salmon and steelhead swim through the monument. They travel to and from the Pacific Ocean. Other fish like bridgelip suckers and smallmouth bass are also found here. The park is working to restore plants along the river. This helps shade the water and provides homes for insects.

Visiting the John Day Fossil Beds: Activities

Map of the Sheep Rock Unit

It's free to enter the park and its visitor center. Trails, overlooks, and picnic areas are open every day during daylight hours. There is no food, lodging, or gas in the park. Camping is not allowed.

The Thomas Condon Paleontology Center is open most days from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. It has a fossil museum, a theater, and a bookstore. You can also see the paleontology lab. There is no cell phone service in the monument. Water taps at picnic areas are turned off in winter.

The Sheep Rock Unit has eight trails. They range from 300 feet (91 m) to 3 miles (4.8 km) long. The Painted Hills Unit has four trails. The Clarno Unit has three trails. Many trails have signs that tell you about the park's history, geology, and fossils. Some trails are even wheelchair accessible. Please stay on the trails to protect the fossils and fragile soils.

Park rangers offer talks and guided hikes. They also show an orientation film. You can learn about the Cant Ranch or enjoy astronomy programs. These events are free. The park also has programs and materials for students and teachers.

You can bring pets to developed areas and on trails. But they must be on a leash. Horses are not allowed on hiking trails. Please do not dig, disturb, or collect any natural resources, including fossils. Taking fossils is against the law. Mountain biking is not allowed in the monument. But you can fish in the John Day River if you have an Oregon fishing license.

Be aware of risks when visiting. Summers can be very hot, and winter roads can be icy. There are also two types of venomous rattlesnakes and two types of venomous spiders. Watch out for ticks, scorpions, and poison ivy.

Multicolored strata in the Painted Hills Unit