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Lagos 1929
Aerial view of Lagos in 1929

Lagos is a huge city in Nigeria, a country in West Africa. It used to be Nigeria's capital city. With about 15.3 million people, it's one of the biggest cities in Africa. In fact, it's the third largest city on the continent by population. Lagos also has the fourth largest economy in Africa.

What's in a Name? The History of Lagos

The name Lagos means "lakes" in Portuguese. This was the language spoken by the first Europeans who came to this area. Before they arrived, the land was already home to the Awori people. The Awori are a group within the larger Yoruba people. The area was once part of the Benin Kingdom and was first called "Eko". The Portuguese later called it "Onim" and then "Lagos".

How Lagos Began

The Awori people, who are part of the Yoruba people, first lived in the Lagos area in the 1400s. Later, in the 1500s, the Bini people also settled there. The Awori moved to an island now called Iddo, and then to the bigger Lagos Island. Their leader, Olofin, divided the island among his ten sons. One son, Aromire, grew pepper on a nearby island. The palace of the Oba (king) of the Yoruba, called Iga Idunganran, was later built there. Its name means "pepper farm palace".

There was a disagreement between Olofin and a rich woman named Aina. The Oba of Benin tried to help settle it. He sent people to check on the dispute. These men saw fishing tools on the shore and thought it meant the people were ready for war. They went back to the Oba of Benin and told him this. So, he sent them back with soldiers. After a battle, Olofin was captured. A war chief named Aseru stayed on Iddo Island. He fought other towns and died far away. Another person, Asipa, brought his body back to Benin. For this, the Oba made Asipa the ruler of Iddo Island. Asipa also received the royal drum, which Lagos kings still use today. His son, Ado, became the first king of Lagos. His family line continues to rule Lagos as Obas.

Europeans Arrive in Lagos

Negroland and Guinea
Map of West Africa by Herman Moll, 1727

In 1472, Portuguese explorers arrived and started trading. Other Europeans soon followed. The Portuguese gave the settlement the name Lagos, meaning "lakes". For a long time, Lagos was home to different Yoruba groups who sometimes fought each other. The Portuguese first noticed the area in the 1400s after the Awori nobility had settled there.

A Portuguese explorer named Rui de Sequeira visited in 1472. He called the area around the city Lago de Curamo, which means Lake of Curamo. It's also possible the city was named after a town in Portugal called Lagos, where many sailors started their journeys.

In the 1500s, the area came under the control of Benin. By 1600, it was a border town. Benin kept only soldiers there, led by four commanders. This military presence and trade with Europeans helped the economy grow. Local people traveled from the coast and inland to Lagos Island to trade. At this time, clothes were a main item sold and sent out from the island and Benin.

In the 1600s, trade with the Portuguese grew even more. Onim became a major center for the Atlantic slave trade. The local Obas (kings) had good relationships with the Portuguese.

By the early 1800s, Lagos was a small kingdom that paid tribute to the Oyo Empire. Like many West African states, Lagos had strong connections with South America. It sent representatives to the Portuguese colony of Brazil. Lagos was one of the first countries to recognize Brazil's independence in 1823. Meanwhile, the Oyo Empire began to fall apart. This allowed Lagos to become the most important market in the Yoruba lands and grow a lot.

Destruction of Lagos, on the west coast of Africa, by the British squadron ILN 1852-0313-0016
Newspaper picture from 1852, showing British forces attacking Lagos.

British Influence in Lagos

In the early 1800s, Britain fought against the transatlantic slave trade. Their special navy group, called the West Africa Squadron, chased slave ships from Portugal, America, France, and Cuba. They also made anti-slavery agreements with West African chiefs. This made Britain very present along the West African coast.

From the time Ado became Oba, Lagos (then called Eko) was a big center for the slave trade. The Oba of Benin and his successors supported this for over 200 years. But in 1841, Oba Akitoye became king and tried to stop slave trading. Local traders were strongly against this. They removed the king and sent him away, putting Akitoye's brother, Kosoko, on the throne. Akitoye went to Europe and met with British officials. Britain had banned slave trading in 1807, so they decided to help Akitoye get his throne back.

In 1849, Britain appointed John Beecroft as Consul for the Bights of Benin and Biafra. He held this job until he died in 1854. At this time, the Kingdom of Lagos (under Oba Kosoko) was a key slave trading port.

In 1851, Britain stepped in and attacked Lagos. This event is known as the Bombardment of Lagos. Oba Akitoye was put back on the throne, and Oba Kosoko was removed. Oba Akitoye then signed a treaty with Britain in 1852 to stop slavery. This treaty meant Britain would protect Lagos with its military.

The Royal Navy first used a Spanish island called Fernando Po (now Bioko) as a base. But in 1855, Spain claimed this port. So, the Royal Navy needed a new base. Lagos was the best choice.

Lagos as a Colony

Lagos, from 1892 book The Story of Africa and its Explorers
Lagos Marina in 1892
Lagos 5
Street in Lagos, around 1910
Lagos-Protest against landtaxes
Lagos saw protests about house and land taxes in 1895

Because of threats from Kosoko and the French, the British Prime Minister, Lord Palmerston, decided in 1861 that Britain should formally take control of Lagos. On July 30, 1861, British officials met with Oba Dosunmu. They explained Britain's plans and asked for his agreement. Dosunmu did not want to agree, but under threat of attack, he signed the Lagos Treaty of Cession on August 6, 1861.

Lagos Becomes a Colony

Lagos-Marina
Lagos Marina (around 1900)
Lagos 1929
Aerial view of Lagos in 1929

Lagos officially became a British colony on March 5, 1862. At first, it was governed by the Gold Coast (modern-day Ghana). In 1886, Lagos became a separate colony. Lagos port became very important for trade because traders knew the Royal Navy would protect them from pirates.

Lagos quickly became a place where many people moved. Migrants came from all over Nigeria and other West African countries. Also, former slaves, called Creoles, returned from places like Freetown, Sierra Leone, Brazil, and the West Indies. The Creoles helped modernize Lagos. Their knowledge of Portuguese architecture can still be seen in buildings on Lagos Island. Since the 1800s, Lagos has become a mix of African and European cultures.

In 1869, the Cathedral Church of Christ was built in Lagos. Five years earlier, Samuel Ajayi Crowther became the first African bishop of the Anglican Church.

Lagos as Nigeria's Capital

Lagos became very important for Nigeria because of General Lugard. After 1900, he led British troops far north. As governor, he made Lagos the capital of southern Nigeria and later of the whole country.

In 1906, Lagos joined the Protectorate of Southern Nigeria and became its capital. Near Lagos, in Lekki, oil was found during test drilling in 1908.

On January 1, 1914, Northern and Southern Nigeria were joined to form one country, the "Colony and Protectorate of Nigeria". Lagos became its capital. However, the British ruled northern and southern Nigeria differently, which still affects the country today. In the north, they used "indirect rule", meaning they mostly left the traditional rulers in charge. In the south, like Lagos, the British ruled directly and tried to bring European ideas to the people. This included the "Nigerian Council" from the 1922 Constitution, which was a type of parliament. It had 46 representatives, including four local people, three of whom were from Lagos. Northern Nigerians were not included.

Modern Changes in Lagos

The Lagos Government Railway started building a railway line from Lagos to Ibadan in 1896. It opened on March 4, 1901. The line was later extended to Nguru, making it about 1360 km long. From 1902, Lagos also had a steam tramway.

Telegraph cables connecting Lagos to London were set up by 1886.

Electricity came to Lagos on September 19, 1898. The power line supplied the Lagos marina.

In 1901, the first bridge, Carter Bridge, was built between Lagos Island and the mainland. It was named after the governor from 1891 to 1898.

The Lagos Port officially opened in 1913.

Mailboat Connections

Liverpool Princes Landing Stage geograph-3080442-by-Ben-Brooksbank
Mail steamer MS Apapa in route service between Liverpool and Lagos/Calabar/Fernando Po (picture from 1950)

From February 1, 1914, regular mailboat services ran between Lagos and Great Britain (Liverpool). These mail ships were the main way Nigeria connected with Britain before air travel started in 1945. Once a month, a mail steamer from the Elder Dempster Lines would dock in Lagos/Apapa and in Calabar/Port Harcourt. These ships carried letters, parcels, cargo, and about 100 passengers. They also stopped in Gambia, Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Gold Coast (Ghana). This is how officials, army officers, business travelers, and tourists traveled to and from the West African colonies.

Travelers from mail steamers could board the "Boat Express" train right next to the ship. This train could take them to Kano in northern Nigeria in 43 hours, with sleeping and dining cars. Many of these passengers were colonial army officers in first class.

By 1935, Nigeria's railway network was at its largest, with 3,056 km of track. Bridges were built over the Niger River (1916) and the Benue River (1932 or 1934) to connect the railway parts. The railway company trained high school graduates to be locomotive drivers or technicians in six-year courses. They were paid during training and earned a good salary after finishing.

Second World War and Strikes

During the Second World War in 1942, Lagos was part of "Operation Postmaster". British special agents secretly captured Italian and German supply ships near the Spanish island of Bioko and brought them to Lagos. This event almost caused Spain to join the war with Germany and Italy.

In June 1945, railway workers in Lagos started a nationwide general strike. It was the first of its kind in Nigeria, growing to include 200,000 workers and seventeen labor unions. In 1946, workers' wages were increased. This strike showed how much people criticized British rule in Nigeria. It was a "turning point" for workers' rights in Nigeria.

Lagos After Independence

Lagos Map
Map of Lagos' initial city boundaries, showing its contemporary districts.

Lagos remained the capital when Nigeria became independent from Britain in 1960. Lagos grew very quickly in the 1960s and 1970s because Nigeria's economy was booming. This growth continued through the 1980s and 1990s, and it still does today.

Lagos Divided into Local Government Areas

Before May 27, 1967, Lagos was directly managed by the Federal Government. Then, Lagos and nearby towns like Ikeja, Agege, Mushin, Ikorodu, Epe, and Badagry were combined to create Lagos State. Lagos city was divided into seven Local Government Areas (LGAs). The other towns became 13 LGAs in the state. Lagos was both the state capital and the federal capital until 1976, when the state capital moved to Ikeja. Lagos faced challenges during Nigeria's military rule.

Music and Culture in Lagos

Lagos has been a major center for the music industry since the 1970s. Famous international artists like Beyoncé even record their songs in Lagos.

One of the first big international stars to record there was Paul McCartney. He recorded his album "Band on the Run" with his band Wings in Lagos in 1973. The ex-Beatle hoped the unique location would inspire him. "Band on the Run" is still McCartney's most successful album and is highly praised by critics.

The "Cement Armada"

In 1974, something strange happened in Lagos called the "cement armada". Due to problems with the government, hundreds of ships carrying cement were waiting outside the port. This was half of the world's cement supply at the time, and it caused a lot of chaos.

Volkswagen in Lagos

Volkswagen of Nigeria started putting together cars in Lagos on March 21, 1975. By 1976, they made over 16,000 vehicles, including the Passat and Audi 100. In the 1980s, Nigeria faced money problems, which made it harder for the factory to produce cars.

In 1990, Volkswagen decided to leave Nigeria. Talks to sell the company to a Nigerian group failed. In 1994, Volkswagen removed its last German employees, and production stopped. The area where the factory was located is still called "Volkswagen".

FESTAC 77: A Celebration of Culture

Festac '77 Regatta (22361732555)
Regatta during FESTAC 77 in Lagos 1977

From January to February 1977, the Second World Black and African Festival of Arts and Culture (FESTAC) took place in Lagos. FESTAC 77 is thought to be the largest cultural event ever held in Africa in the 20th century. It featured African art, films, music, literature, dance, and religion. The area where it took place is still called "Festac town" today.

President Jimmy Carter's Visit

From March 31 to April 3, 1977, then-US President Jimmy Carter visited Lagos. As of 2023, this is the only visit by a US president to the city.

Lagos is No Longer the Capital

In 1991, Ibrahim Babangida, the Military President, and other government offices moved to the new capital city, Abuja. This change meant Lagos lost some of its importance and economic power. However, Lagos is still the financial center of Nigeria. It has also grown to be the most populated city area in the country.

Lagos in the New Millennium

The Rise of Nollywood

After 2000, the Surulere district of Lagos became the center of Nigeria's film industry, known as Nollywood. Lagos itself has been the setting and filming location for many movies. The 2016 film "Captain America: Civil War" even has a scene set in Lagos. Other international shows and movies have also used Lagos as a filming spot. The film "93 days" (2016) with Danny Glover tells the true story of the 2014 Ebola outbreak in Lagos and was filmed in real locations. Nigerian films have become more high-quality and successful, breaking box office records.

Emergency Situations

On January 27, 2002, there were explosions at a military barracks in the city. A fire from a street market spread to an ammunition depot, causing about 30 explosions. People ran in a panic. This disaster killed at least a thousand people. Many homes were destroyed, leaving families without shelter. Many children drowned in a sewer while trying to escape.

In 2012, 163 people died when a plane crashed into a building in Lagos.

On November 1, 2021, a 21-story building under construction in the rich Ikoyi area collapsed. 44 people died, including the owner and construction manager. The building permit only allowed 15 stories, and the original builder had left the project a year earlier because of changes to the building plan. This was the biggest construction disaster of its kind in Lagos.

A Narrow Escape: Ebola in Lagos

On July 20, 2014, a traveler from Liberia arrived at Lagos airport with Ebola. He was diagnosed after going to a private hospital. This patient might have infected 72 people at the airport and hospital. He died on July 25. By September 24, there were 19 confirmed Ebola cases. No new cases appeared after August 31, which meant the Ebola outbreak in Nigeria was likely stopped. A quickly set up Emergency Operations Centre helped control the outbreak early and prevented a much bigger disaster.

Lagos as a Tech Hub

On August 30, 2016, Mark Zuckerberg, the founder of Facebook, made a surprise visit to tech startups in the Yaba district. He spoke with children who were learning computer programming during their summer holidays. In October 2017, Facebook created its first African SME Council in Nigeria to help small and medium-sized businesses.

New Infrastructure in Lagos

On June 10, 2021, Lagos got a new standard gauge railway link to Ibadan, Nigeria's third largest city. It included a modern central station. While other African countries still use older railways, Nigeria is expanding its rail network with help from China. In 2022, the Nigerian Railway Corporation reported that the Lagos-Ibadan line was making a profit.

In January 2023, the new deep-sea port of Lekki opened. This port helps reduce traffic at the older, more crowded ports of Apapa and Tin Can Island.

On September 4, 2023, the first part of the Lagos suburban railway, called the blue line, started operating.

On February 14, 2024, Governor Sanwo-Olu announced that the Red Line of the Lagos suburban railway would open on February 29, 2024. The Nigerian President Tinubu was expected to be there.

Building a New Arena

On February 24, 2024, construction began on a new multi-purpose arena on Victoria Island. It will seat 12,000 people and be a great place for Lagos's growing entertainment industry. Several companies are working together to build this arena, which should be finished by December 2025. The arena will host many events, including concerts by international and Nigerian music stars, family shows, basketball games, and boxing matches. It aims to be Africa's top venue for live entertainment, hosting 200 events each year.

Obas (Kings) of Lagos

Lagos has had many Obas (kings) throughout its history. The first king of Lagos was King Ado (1630–1669). The current Oba is Rilwan Akiolu (2003–present).

See also

  • Timeline of Lagos
  • Oba of Lagos

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