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Box Hill
Part of the Mole Gap to Reigate Escarpment SSSI
IUCN Category IV (Habitat/Species Management Area)
Towards Box Hill - geograph.org.uk - 1805314.jpg
Box Hill viewed from the south.
Photograph taken from Betchworth Park Golf Course.
Box Hill is located in Surrey
Box Hill
Box Hill
Location in Surrey
Nearest town Dorking, Surrey, England
Area 11 km2 (4.2 sq mi)
Box hill map.png
Map of Box Hill, showing the areas managed by the National Trust (purple), Surrey Wildlife Trust (turquoise) and Surrey County Council (green). The urban area of Box Hill village is shown in grey.
Highest point
Elevation 224 m (735 ft)
Prominence 49 m (161 ft)
Geography
Parent range North Downs
OS grid TQ 178 514
Topo map OS Landranger 187
Geology
Age of rock Cretaceous and Eocene
Type of rock Chalk and Clay-with-Flints

Box Hill is a summit of the North Downs in Surrey, approximately 31 km (19 mi) south-west of London. The hill gets its name from the ancient box woodland found on the steepest west-facing chalk slopes overlooking the River Mole. The western part of the hill is owned and managed by the National Trust, whilst the village of Box Hill lies on higher ground to the east. The highest point is Betchworth Clump at 224 m (735 ft) above OD, although the Salomons Memorial (at 172 metres) overlooking the town of Dorking is the most popular viewpoint.

Box Hill lies within the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and forms part of the Mole Gap to Reigate Escarpment Site of Special Scientific Interest. The north- and south-facing slopes support an area of chalk downland, noted for its orchids and other rare plant species. The hill provides a habitat for 38 species of butterfly, and has given its name to a species of squash bug, now found throughout south-east England.

An estimated 850,000 people visit Box Hill each year. The National Trust visitors' centre provides both a cafeteria and gift shop, and panoramic views of the western Weald may be enjoyed from the North Downs Way, a long-distance footpath that runs along the south-facing scarp slope. Box Hill featured prominently on the route of the 2012 Summer Olympics cycling road race events.

Geography

Box Hill stands at the south-eastern corner of the Mole Gap, the valley carved by the River Mole through the North Downs. Box Hill School is in the village of Mickleham 1.4 kilometres (0.9 mi) to the north, and the hill overlooks the town of Dorking to the south-west. The hill is approximately 30 km (19 mi) south-west of central London and is the 12th highest in Surrey.

Box hill map
Map of Box Hill, showing the areas managed by the National Trust (purple), Surrey Wildlife Trust (turquoise) and Surrey County Council (green). The urban area of Box Hill village is shown in grey.

The National Trust owns and manages much of the western and north-eastern part of Box Hill. Leopold Salomons, owner of Norbury Park donated 95 ha (230 acres) in 1914 in order to protect it from development. Additional land was purchased or donated between 1921 and 1999 and today the Box Hill estate covers an area of around 490 ha (1,200 acres), including Mickleham Downs to the north and Lower Boxhill Farm to the south.

The 'village' of Box Hill (part of a joint civil parish with Headley) is to the east of the National Trust property. The earliest flint cottages date from the 1800s, although much of the village was constructed in the first half of the 20th century. By 2005 there were more than 800 dwellings of which over five hundred were mobile homes. An estimated 41% of the community is aged 60 or over. St Andrew's Church, part of the Parish of Headley, was opened in 1969 and the village hall opened in 1974

The village

Box Hill
St Andrew's Church, Box Hill (Geograph Image 2266120 e41e2a89).jpg
St Andrew's Church, Box Hill village
Population 1,320 (2019 estimate)
Civil parish
  • n/a
District
  • Mole Valley
Shire county
Region
Country England
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Post town Tadworth
Postcode district KT20
Dialling code 01306 / 01737
Police Surrey
Fire Surrey
Ambulance South East Coast
EU Parliament South East England
UK Parliament
  • Mole Valley
List of places
UK
England
Surrey

The village of Box Hill is to the east of the summit and to the west of the Country Park owned by the National Trust. The earliest flint cottages date from the 1800s, although much of the village was constructed in the first half of the 20th century. By 2005 there were more than 800 dwellings, of which over five hundred were mobile homes. An estimated 41% of the community is aged 60 or over. St Andrew's Church, part of the ecclesiastical parish of Headley, was consecrated in 1969 and the village hall opened in 1974. The village is not part of a civil parish.

History

Early history

The earliest archaeological evidence of human activity on Box Hill are two Bronze Age round barrows located close to the Salomons Memorial. The larger barrow is 20 m (66 ft) in diameter and 2.2 m (7 ft 3 in) high. In medieval times the larger barrow was used as a boundary marker or mere for the parish of Mickleham. Traces of prehistoric field boundaries are visible on Burford Spur and the low flint banks on the steeper and more wooded White Hill may be contemporaneous.

Medieval and early modern periods

The origin of the Box trees growing on the hill is disputed: Several sources from the late 18th century suggest that the first Box Trees on the Hill were planted by Thomas Howard, 21st Earl of Arundel during the reign of Charles I. Older medieval documents however make reference to local individuals with surnames including Atteboxe, de la Boxe and Buxeto, suggesting that Box was already common in the local area by the 13th century, and it has also been observed that Thomas Howard never owned the Box Hill estate. The diarist John Evelyn records a visit to the hill in August 1655 to view "those natural bowers, cabinets and shady walks in the box copses." The close grain of the Box wood made it highly prized for its timber for carving and there are numerous accounts of the sale of trees from the hill throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.

The pillow mounds to the north-east of the Salomons Memorial are thought to date from the medieval period and were probably constructed as artificial warrens for rabbits. High Ashurst warren is recorded as remaining in use until the late 18th century. A second warren was probably situated close to Warren Farm in the Headley Valley and it has been speculated that the present farmhouse was originally the warrener's cottage.

20th century

The proposals for a land value tax outlined by Chancellor David Lloyd George in his People's Budget of 1909 prompted the trustees of the Deepdene estate to start to sell the unimproved land on the western side of Box Hill. As a result of negotiations led by Sir Robert Hunter, one of the founders of the National Trust, Leopold Salomons of Norbury Park purchased 95 ha (230 acres) which included the Old Fort, Swiss Cottage and the western flank of the hill above the River Mole, for £16,000.

Two further purchases of 28 ha (69 acres) and 102 ha (250 acres) transferred Lodge Hill and Ashurst Rough to National Trust ownership in 1921 and 1923. The Trust continued to purchase land, and by the mid-1980s the estate comprised some 500 ha (1,200 acres). The most recent additions to the Box Hill Estate include farmland at Westhumble and at the foot of the hill, purchased in the late 1990s.

The National Trust also owns Headley Heath, a geologically distinct area of heathland which lies to the north-east of Box Hill village. The majority of the heath was acquired in a single purchase in 1946.

Geology

Rock types

Chalk Face, Betchworth Quarry, Box Hill, Surrey
The exposed chalk workings of the former Betchworth Quarry on the south-facing scarp slope of Box Hill.

The chalk which comprises the majority of Box Hill (and the rest of the North Downs), has its origins in the late Cretaceous (approximately 100 – 66 million years ago). For the entirety of this period, south east England was covered by a warm, shallow sea in which coccolithophores, single-celled algae with small calcite skeletons, thrived. As the phytoplankton died, their calcium-rich shells were deposited on the sea bed and, over time, formed the chalk we know today.

Overlying the chalk across much of the higher ground on the hill, is a deposit of clay-with-flints. Although the origins of this layer are uncertain, the clay is thought to have been formed during several periods of glaciation and was produced by cryoturbation and decalcification of the chalk. This hypothesis is supported by the presence of flint, which is also found in the underlying strata.

The sandy deposits on Headley Heath have their origin in the Quaternary. The sand and gravels found in this area, indicate the presence of the sea shore. On Headley Heath, these deposits are thin and the chalk also comes to the surface in several places, allowing acid-loving plants to thrive alongside those that prefer alkaline conditions, producing the rare chalk heath habitat.

Wealden uplift and erosion of the North Downs escarpment

Western Weald geology cross section
Simplified geological cross section of the western Weald, showing how the land was uplifted to form the Weald-Artois anticline (dashed lines) and the strata as they are today (solid lines).

Following the Cretaceous, the sea covering the south of England began to retreat and the land was pushed higher. The Weald (the area covering modern day south Surrey, south Kent and north Sussex) was lifted by the same geological processes that created the Alps, resulting in an anticline which stretched across the English Channel to the Artois region of northern France. Initially an island, this dome-like structure was drained by the ancestors of the rivers which today cut through the North and South Downs (including the Mole, Wey, Arun and Adur). The dome was eroded away over the course of the Cenozoic, exposing the strata beneath and resulting in the escarpments of the Downs and the Greensand Ridge.

Chalk is a relatively soft rock that may be eroded or weathered in a number of different ways. It is porous, able to absorb up to 20% of its dry weight in water, and therefore highly susceptible to weathering by freeze-thaw action, which may occur over repeated annual or diurnal cycles. This frost weathering produces a mix of rubble and viscous mud, which may be washed downhill, further eroding the landscape (a process known as solifluction). At the west side of Box Hill, the hydraulic action of the River Mole has cut a cliff known as The Whites and the river bed contains coarse chalk rubble (clast), which has fallen from the steep slopes above. Since the chalk contains a very high percentage of calcium carbonate, it can be dissolved by ground water and solubilisation of the rock at the base of the hill may have produced the slabwise slumping or subsidence visible at the top of the Burford Spur. Finally, rainwater, which is mildly acidic, will dissolve and react with the chalk.

Headley Heath (geograph 5380860)
One of two steep-sided combes (dry river valleys) on the western side of Headley Heath.

The eastern and northern boundaries of Box Hill are defined by dry river valleys, now occupied by Pebblehill Road and Headley Lane respectively. These valleys were active during the last ice age, when the chalk bedrock became frozen and impermeable, forcing water to run over the surface in streams rather than percolating into the ground. Both valleys are narrow, twisting and deep, suggesting that they were created by fast flowing torrents, possibly released during periods of rapid snowmelt.

The northern side of Box Hill (corresponding to the dip slope of the cuesta of the North Downs) is cut by six combes, also created by Ice Age watercourses. The westernmost of these combes (between the Burford Spur and Lodge Hill) is climbed by the Zig Zag Road. There is a small reservoir to the west of High Ashurst at the base of the Bullen Wood combe, which is not accessible to the public. All six combes contained tributaries of the stream that created the Headley Valley, which joined the River Mole near Fredley, Mickleham.

Quarries and lime kilns

Betchworth limekiln - geograph.org.uk - 869914
The Smidth Kiln at Betchworth Quarry was constructed in around 1901.

Chalk and flint have been quarried from Box Hill and the surrounding area for many centuries. There are limited surviving examples of the incorporation of chalk blocks (or clunch) into the stonework of local buildings (including Mickleham Church). Walls made of flints, bound together by lime mortar, are particularly common in Surrey and quicklime could be produced with relative ease, by heating chalk above 825 °C (1,517 °F) in a kiln.

Evidence remains of the small-scale chalk quarrying that occurred prior to the Industrial Revolution, including chalk pits both at Warren Farm and close to the Burford Bridge Hotel. The opening of the Dorking to Reigate railway line at the bottom of the hill in 1849, enabled new quarry faces to be opened at Brockham and Betchworth. Sidings were provided adjacent to the main line and there was an extensive network of narrow-gauge railway tracks at both sites. The Brockham Limeworks closed in 1935, however a battery of eight kilns (dating from 1870) still stands and is Grade II listed. The larger Betchworth Quarry and Lime Kilns (approximately 1 km to the east) closed in 1960 and a variety of different kiln types have been preserved and protected with a Grade II listing. The two sites have been designated as Nature Reserves and are managed by Surrey Wildlife Trust. A wide range of bat species now roost in the former kilns.

Gravel was quarried on the northern side of Headley Heath during the 18th and early 19th centuries, most likely to provide material for building local roads.

Fossils

Numerous fossils, typical of species living in a warm, shallow sea, have been found in the chalk at Box Hill, including brachiopods (Terebratulina gracilis, Terebratulina carnea and Rhynchonella cuvieri), arthropods (Janira quinquecostatus), bivalves (Spondylus spinosus and Ostrea hippodium), urchins (Holaster planus, Micraster leskei) and sponges (Plinthosella squamata).

Ecology

Conservation

Belted Galloway Cattle on Box Hill, Surrey
Belted Galloway cattle grazing the Burford Spur on the north western side of the hill.

The entirety of Box Hill lies within the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The vast majority of the publicly accessible areas of the hill that are managed by the National Trust and Surrey Wildlife Trust, form part of the Mole Gap to Reigate Escarpment Site of Special Scientific Interest and have been designated a Special Area of Conservation.

The chalk downland of Box Hill provides a habitat for a wide range of plant species, which in turn support a varied population of insect species. The alkaline soils are thin and nutrient poor, which prevents deeper-rooted lush grasses (with a high water demand) from dominating. Each square metre of chalk downland may support up to 40 different species.

Without careful management, the grassland would revert to woodland and so these areas of the hill are grazed in order to prevent scrub from becoming overestablished. Both the National Trust and Surrey Wildlife Trust use Belted Galloway cattle (affectionately nicknamed 'Belties'), which crop the grass less hard than other grazers and allow the more delicate wild flowers (including orchids) to flourish. At Betchworth Quarry, Surrey Wildlife Trust allows goats to graze, which can eat woodier plants such as gorse and bramble. Rabbits also make a significant contribution to the control of scrub and coarse grasses on the hill, although their numbers have declined since the introduction of myxomatosis in 1953.

Olympic Rings Box Hill-by-Ian-Capper
Olympic Rings were installed at the viewpoint in July 2012.

For any conservation area, it is important to find a balance between the interests of people visiting and the needs of the wildlife that it seeks to protect. After the announcement that the Olympic cycling road races would be routed over the hill, concerns were expressed that habitats would be damaged during the event. Scrub clearance along the side of the Zig Zag Road to provide space for spectators began in January 2012, after a pre-race survey (commissioned by the London Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games) showed that the work was likely to increase biodiversity. A second ecological survey, performed after the Games, showed that no significant damage had occurred, although some areas were subsequently reseeded.

Biodiversity

Common spotted (left) and musk (right) orchids growing on Box Hill.

The chalk downland environment supports notable populations of bats, lepidopterans, orchids and the hill's namesake, the box tree (Buxus sempervirens).

Orchids

A large number of species of orchid have been recorded on Box Hill, including autumn lady's-tresses, bee orchids, bird's-nest orchids, broad-leaved helleborines, common spotted orchids, common twayblades, fragrant orchids, pyramidal orchids and white helleborines.

Other wild flowers

Wild garlic grows alongside bluebells under the tree canopy beside the River Mole at the western edge of the hill, giving the area its distinctive smell in springtime.

Aquatic plants

Damasonium alisma (starfruit) was reintroduced to Headley Heath in 2013 using seeds from the Millennium Seed Bank, having been absent since 2000. It is now found in Brimmer Pond (half of which is enclosed to prevent habitat disturbance by dogs) and also in Heath House Pond.

Trees

The Whites Box Hill- geograph.org.uk - 1503979
Yew and box trees growing on the west side of the hill.

The box and yew woodland, on the steep-sloping sides of the hill above the River Mole, is of international importance. Common canopy-layer species include beech, ash and oak. Understorey species include holly, hazel, elder and honeysuckle.

Invasive species found on the hill include buddleia, cherry laurel, Japanese knot weed and Canadian goldenrod. Boxwood blight, a fungal disease caused by Cylindrocladium buxicola, is widespread.

Bats

Several abandoned brick and concrete structures provide habitats for bats and grills have been placed over their entrances to protect the roosting sites. Three species are known to inhabit the old Box Hill Fort: the brown long-eared bat, the noctule bat and Natterer's bat. The brown long-eared bat, Natterer's bat, the whiskered bat and Daubenton's bat have been recorded at both Betchworth and Brockham quarries. Brandt's bat has been recorded at Betchworth; Bechstein's bat and the common pipistrelle have been recorded at Brockham.

Butterflies and moths

Chalkhill blue (left) and marbled white (right) butterflies on knapweed flowers on Box Hill.

Box Hill supports 38 different species of butterflies. Species include silver-spotted skipper, Adonis blue and chalkhill blue (grassland); brown hairstreak (scrub); purple emperor and white admiral (woodland). The small pearl-bordered fritillary was present on the hill in the 1970s, but has not been recorded locally since 1997.

Kidney vetch, growing in the Zig Zag Valley and below the Viewpoint, supports populations of the small blue. To create new habitats for the butterflies, a number of ‘scrapes’ were excavated in the late 2010s, exposing bare chalk on which vetch can become established with minimal competition. Buddleia removal was also initiated as part of the same programme.

Rare moth species found on the hill include the straw belle, chalk carpet, lace border, orange-tailed clearwing and the Surrey midget moth.

Other insects

The hill has given its name to a species of squash bug, now found throughout south-east England.

Recreation

Box Hill Salomons Memorial
Salomons Memorial viewpoint, looking south, in 2010

Box Hill Country Park

The western part of Box Hill, managed by the National Trust, was designated a Country Park in 1971 and some of the outbuildings associated with the Box Hill Fort are in use as a visitor centre, gift shop and servery. In 2011, a Natural Play Trail was constructed close to the visitor centre, cofunded by the National Trust and the Friends of Box Hill.

On the hill there are car parks and a panoramic view over the Weald towards the South Downs may be enjoyed from the Salomons Memorial (more commonly known as the viewpoint). Juniper Top, on the northern side of the hill, offers views to the northwest towards Windsor Castle.

The Country Park is crisscrossed by a large number of footpaths and bridleways, and there are several signposted, self-guided trails.

Cycling

Zig Zag Road
RW1 3172.jpg
Prudential Ride-London 100: Amateur cyclists ascending the Zig Zag Road (July 2016)
Location Box Hill, Surrey
Gain in altitude 120 m (390 ft)
Length of climb 2.5 km (1.6 mi)
Maximum elevation 175 m (574 ft)
Average gradient 5.0 %
Maximum gradient 7.3 %
Website Box Hill Olympic Circuit

Box Hill has been popular with cyclists since the 1880s and by the 1890s, Dorking Cycle Club was organising camps for amateur cyclists from across the south east of England. The 2012 Summer Olympic cycling road races included 15.8 km (9.8 mi) mid-race circuits of Box Hill. An estimated 15,000 spectators travelled to the hill on 28 July 2012 to watch the men's race, which included nine circuits and the following day, competitors in the women's race climbed Box Hill twice.

The 15.8 km (9.8 mi) Box Hill Olympic circuit is generally cycled in an anticlockwise direction and begins to the south of the village of Mickleham with an ascent of the hill via the Zig Zag Road. From the National Trust Visitor Centre, the route turns eastwards, running along the escarpment and through the urban area of Box Hill village, reaching a maximum elevation of 216 metres (709 ft) above Ordnance Datum. After 6.6 kilometres (4.1 mi) the route turns northwest along the B2033, passing through the village of Headley. After 9.5 kilometres (5.9 mi), the circuit begins a continuous descent to the valley of the River Mole, passing to the south of Leatherhead, before turning southwards again through Mickleham to return to the start.

The Zig Zag Road is a steady climb of 120 metres (390 ft) over 2.5 kilometres (1.6 mi) and has, although on a much smaller scale, been likened to the Alpe d'Huez in the French Alps. The exact date of construction is uncertain: The road first appears on the Ordnance Survey map of 1869, but is not shown in a watercolour painting dated 1861 by William Leighton Leitch, which is owned by the Royal Collection. The Zig Zag Road is not a public right of way and is closed for one day each year by the National Trust, to preserve its private road status.

As part of the 2011 London Prepares series, the London–Surrey Cycle Classic for professional cyclists was organised to test the Olympic course. The Prudential RideLondon-Surrey 100 and London–Surrey Classic, for amateur and professional cyclists respectively, have taken place annually following the Games and, although the course has undergone several alterations from the 2012 Olympic course, the two races always include a climb of Box Hill.

High Ashurst

High Ashurst is an outdoor education and activity centre on the northern side of Box Hill, adjacent to Headley Heath. The centre is run by Surrey Outdoor Learning and Development on behalf of Surrey County Council. Previously the site comprised the grounds of a country house, which was demolished in the 1970s, having been derelict for several decades.

Boidier Hurst campsite

The District Scout Associations of Leatherhead and Epsom and Ewell own a 4.0-hectare (10-acre) campsite, located between Box Hill village and Headley Heath. There are 11 areas for pitching groups of tents, set within coppiced chestnut woodland. Washing, toilet facilities and a kitchen are available. Use of Boidier Hurst is restricted to members of The Scout Association, The Guide Association and to local school groups on Duke of Edinburgh's Award expeditions.

Points of interest

Betchworth Clump

The highest point on Box Hill is immediately to the east of Box Hill village at 224 m (735 ft) above OD. The area is known as Betchworth Clump after a distinctive group of beech trees, which were present at the start of the 20th century. Today, the dense woodland at the summit conceals a water tower and transmitter mast, neither of which are accessible to the public.

The concrete water tower was built in 1930 by East Surrey Water, the forerunner of SES Water. The structure was refurbished in 2009 to extend its working life by at least 25 years; modifications included the relining of the water bowl, repair of cracks in the walls and roof, as well as the provision of a new access staircase.

The 30m-high mobile phone mast was constructed in 2003 and is operated by Vodafone and EE Limited.

Broadwood's Folly

Broadwood's Tower-cropped
Broadwood's Folly was built in around 1820. Part of the Zig Zag Road is visible to the right of the tower.

The circular flint tower located on the northern tip of Lodge Hill was built for the piano maker Thomas Broadwood, who purchased Juniper Hall in 1815. It is approximately 8 metres (26 ft) high and originally had two internal floors, linked by a spiral staircase. The original doorway is visible on the east side, but has been sealed with rough flints. An avenue of beech trees linked the folly to Juniper Hall, although these were destroyed by the Great Storm of 1987. The tower may have been built to commemorate the Battle of Waterloo.

A sparkling wine, produced by Denbies Wine Estate for the Lidl supermarket chain, has been named after the folly.

Labilliere's grave

Peter Labelliere's grave, Box Hill
Labilliere's tombstone

Peter Labilliere was born in Dublin on 30 May 1725 to a family of French Huguenot descent. He joined the British Army at the age of 14, becoming a major in 1760. After leaving the army he became a political agitator and was accused in 1775 of bribing British troops not to fight in the American War of Independence, although he was never tried for treason.

After moving to Dorking in around 1789, Labilliere often visited Box Hill to meditate. With old age he became increasingly eccentric and neglected his own personal hygiene to such an extent that he acquired the nickname "the walking dung-hill". He died on 6 June 1800. In accordance with his wishes he was buried head downwards, on 11 June on the western side of Box Hill above The Whites. In the presence of a crowd of thousands that included visitors from London as well as the local "quality gentry", Labilliere was buried without any religious ceremony, having reportedly said that the world was "topsy-turvey" and that it would be righted in the end if he were interred thus. However, in his "Book of Devotions", he wrote that he wished to emulate the example of St Peter, who was crucified upside-down according to tradition.

The current memorial stone on Box Hill is not believed to mark the exact location of his burial (which is thought to be several metres to the west on a steep incline). There are two errors on the stone itself: He was buried in June 1800 (rather than July) and all surviving manuscripts indicate that he spelt his name Labilliere (rather than Labelliere).

Weypole and Stepping Stones

Stepping stones
The Stepping Stones at the foot of Box Hill. The photograph is taken from the west bank of the Mole, looking across the river to the Weypole.

The Weypole (or Waypole) is a roughly semi-circular 2.4 ha (5.9-acre) area of level ground at the foot of Box Hill, between The Whites and the River Mole. The area was originally part of the grounds of Burford Lodge, built by John Eckersall in 1776, and the apple and cherry trees in the area suggest that it was used as an orchard for a time. The Burford Lodge estate was later owned by the horticulturalist Sir Trevor Lawrence, who created a garden along the banks of the Mole for his collection of orchids.

A ford across the River Mole is thought to have existed here since prehistoric times. The way-pole was a notched post, secured in the riverbed, that indicated the depth of the water. Stepping stones at this site are first recorded in 1841 and they may have been installed by an owner of Burford Lodge to facilitate access to the Weypole orchard. The crossing was formally reopened on 11 September 1946 by Prime Minister Clement Attlee, at the request of James Chuter Ede, local politician and Attlee's Home Secretary. The new stones replaced those removed during World War II as an anti-invasion measure.

The spot is popular with both anglers and families, although swimming is strongly discouraged. The stones give their name to the pub in the nearby village of Westhumble.

Other

The Burford Bridge Hotel and Juniper Hall Field Studies Centre lie at the foot of Box Hill close to the river Mole. Both are rich in historical associations with famous visitors and residents.

Notable former residents

John Logie Baird

John Logie Baird (1888-1946), the inventor of the first working television system, lived at Box Hill from 1929 until 1932. He had first demonstrated the new technology in early 1926, and continued with his work when he moved to Swiss Cottage on the top of the hill. He installed a small-scale electricity generating plant in a purpose-built outbuilding, to provide electrical power for his experiments, which included test transmissions to the roof of the Red Lion pub in Dorking High Street. He also demonstrated his Noctovisor, an infrared viewing device, which was designed to enable ships to see each other at night or in fog.

Swiss Cottage was built in the mid-19th century and is protected by a Grade II listing. It is not accessible to the public.

Brodie family

Brockham Warren was the family seat of the Brodie baronets. Sir Benjamin Collins Brodie, 1st Baronet (1783-1862) was a physiologist and surgeon, who performed pioneering research into bone and joint diseases. He served as sergeant-surgeon to both William IV and subsequently Queen Victoria. He was made a baronet in 1834 and was President of the Royal Society from 1858 to 1861. His son, Sir Benjamin Collins Brodie, 2nd Baronet (1817-1880), was a Chemistry Professor at Oxford University from 1865 to 1872, and is chiefly known for his investigations into the allotropic states of carbon and for his discovery of graphitic acid.

George Meredith

George Meredith's Home
George Meredith and family members, photographed in the rear garden of Flint Cottage, Box Hill.

The author George Meredith (1828-1909) lived in Flint Cottage from 1868 until his death. He built a chalet in the garden in which he wrote. Today the house is protected by a Grade II listing and is not accessible to the public.

Among several works written at Box Hill, Meredith's poem The Lark Ascending, published in 1881, inspired Ralph Vaughan Williams to compose the musical work of the same name. A second poem, Love in the Valley (published in 1883 as part of a collection entitled Poems and Lyrics of the Joy of Earth), is said to have been inspired by the part of Box Hill known as Juniper Bottom or Happy Valley.

The part of the hill immediately opposite the cottage is known as Barrie's Bank, because the author J. M. Barrie supposedly waited there, while summoning the courage to introduce himself to Meredith.

E. F. Warburg

The botanist Edmund Frederic ("Heff") Warburg (1908-1966) grew up at Boidier, a house close to the southeastern corner of Headley Heath. His father was a keen gardener and had assembled a large collection of exotic plants at the family home. Heff became reader in plant taxonomy at Oxford University and was a fellow of New College.

His mother, Lady Warburg, gave the land for Boidier Hurst Camp Site to the District Scout Associations of Leatherhead and Epsom and Ewell in 1946 and her family donated the neighbouring, 9-hectare (22-acre) Heath Plantation to the National Trust following her death in 1952.

Edvard Westermarck

The Finnish philosopher and sociologist Edvard Westermarck (1862-1939) rented Keeper's Cottage as his summer residence between 1910 and 1927.

Registered charities

The National Trust owns around half of the land on Box Hill (principally the Country Park in the west and Headley Heath in the north-east). Surrey Wildlife Trust manage Brockham Limeworks (owned by Surrey County Council) as well as Betchworth Quarry and Lime Kilns (privately owned). Both Trusts rely on the support of volunteer groups, working alongside paid employees, to carry out conservation and education work.

The Friends of Box Hill (FoBH) is a local organisation, which supports the National Trust in its work in the Country Park. Several of its members advise the Trust on its wildlife management plans and the FoBH also fund specific projects, including the purchase of equipment and improvement of visitor facilities. They also organise a programme of social events, which includes regular talks by Trust staff.

The Friends of Headley Heath (FoHH) coordinate volunteer working parties to assist National Trust Rangers and also run a series of social events.

(Both the FoBH and FoHH are independent of the National Trust.)

Transport links

Public transport

Box Hill & Westhumble is the closest railway station to the National Trust Country Park (approximately 500 m) and is served by trains from both London Victoria and London Waterloo. Both Dorking Deepdene and Dorking (Main) stations are around 1 km from the south western corner of the hill. Betchworth station is at the south eastern corner of the hill.

Box Hill bus and bus stop
A Sunray Travel bus passing the visitor centre. Inset left shows the special wooden National Trust bus stop, with logo engraved.

Box Hill is served by local and London bus routes.

Access for motor vehicles

Access to the National Trust Country Park from the A24 dual carriageway is via the B2209 and the Zig Zag Road, however this route is not suitable for buses or coaches. Alternative access is via the B2033 and Boxhill Road, which leads through Box Hill village and approaches the Country Park from the west. Headley Heath is directly accessible from the B2033.

Cycle routes

National Cycle Route 22 runs along the northern boundary of the hill via Lodgebottom Road and Headley Lane, before turning south along the A24 close to the western boundary. The Surrey Cycleway approaches Box Hill from the west via Westhumble, before turning to the south towards Dorking.

Walking

The North Downs Way long-distance footpath from Farnham to Dover, crosses the River Mole at the Stepping Stones and then runs from west to east at the top of the scarp slope, passing in front of the Salomons Memorial.

The Thames Down Link follows the course of Stane Street across Mickleham Downs, to the north of Box Hill, and meets the North Downs Way close to the Burford Bridge Hotel.

In the news

In 1963 Great Train Robber, Jimmy White, hid £30,440 (approximately one fifth of his share of the stolen cash), in a caravan at Clovelly Caravan Park at the top of Box Hill.

In 1995 teenager Ruth Wilson disappeared after being dropped off by taxi on Box Hill.

In 2013 a body that had lain undiscovered for two years was found on Box Hill. .....

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