History of fashion design facts for kids

A dress believed to be by Charles Frederick Worth, worn by Empress Elisabeth of Austria.

The history of fashion design is all about how clothes, shoes, and accessories have been created and changed over time. It looks at the ideas and reasons behind their designs. The fashion industry we know today, with famous fashion houses and individual designers, really began in the 1800s. A designer named Charles Frederick Worth was a pioneer. Starting in 1858, he was the first to sew his own label into the clothes he made.

Fashion began when people first started wearing clothes. These early clothes were often made from plants, animal skins, and bones. Before the mid-1800s, there wasn't a big difference between fancy, custom-made clothes (called haute couture) and clothes you could buy off the rack (called ready-to-wear). Most women's clothes were custom-made by dressmakers who worked directly with the customer. Often, clothes were designed and sewn right at home. When stores started selling ready-to-wear clothing, it made life easier for many families.

Over time, clothing designs became more influenced by printed patterns, especially from Paris. These designs traveled across Europe, and people in other areas eagerly waited for them. Dressmakers would then try to copy these patterns as best they could. The original designs often came from the most fashionable people, usually those at royal courts, along with their tailors and dressmakers. By 1800, most people in Western Europe dressed similarly. Local styles then became a sign of older, traditional ways.

In the early 1900s, fashion magazines and newspapers started including photographs, making them even more powerful. These magazines were very popular worldwide and greatly influenced what people liked to wear. Talented artists like Paul Iribe and Erté drew beautiful fashion pictures for these magazines. They showed the newest trends in fashion and beauty. One of the most famous magazines was La Gazette du Bon Ton, which was published from 1912 to 1925.

Early Fashion: Before 1900

In the early 1700s, the first fashion designers became leaders in style. In the 1720s, Queen Marie Leszczyńska's dressmaker, Françoise Leclerc, became very popular with French noblewomen. Later in the century, designers like Rose Bertin gained fame.

Rose Bertin (1747–1813) was known as the 'Minister of Fashion'. She was the dressmaker for Marie Antoinette, the Queen of France from 1770 to 1793. Bertin opened a shop in Paris and had a huge impact on Parisian style. However, the French Revolution forced her to move to London for a while.

Marie Antoinette, who was not from France, relied on Bertin's detailed designs to help her make a statement with her style. The Queen's unique fashion choices, like simple muslin dresses, were very different from the fancy gowns of the time. Bertin helped the Queen express herself through fashion. This set a new trend for future monarchs and their designers. By the early 1800s, designers like Ann Margaret Lanchester were growing their businesses and publishing their designs in fashion magazines. In the first half of the 1800s, Parisian designers like Madame Vignon often worked with clients to create unique, custom pieces.

An Englishman living in Paris, Charles Frederick Worth (1825–1905), is seen as the first modern fashion designer. He ran a large business with many tailors and seamstresses. Worth was so successful that he could tell customers what they should wear. He became famous as the main designer for Empress Eugénie. Worth used his royal connections to get more clients. In 1853, Napoleon III announced that no one could visit his court without formal dress. This made Worth's fancy gowns incredibly popular. His dresses were richly decorated and made from the best materials. They were famous for their crinolines, which were cage-like metal structures that held the dress in a stylish, wide shape.

In the early 1900s, high fashion mostly came from Paris and, to a lesser extent, London. Fashion magazines from other countries sent editors to the Paris fashion shows. Department stores also sent buyers to Paris. They bought clothes to copy and openly took ideas from other designs. Both custom-made salons and ready-to-wear sections showed the latest Paris trends. These were adjusted to fit the lifestyles and budgets of their customers.

Fashion in the 1900s

1900s: Elegant Beginnings

A fashionable lady of the era: Elizabeth Wharton Drexel in 1905.

The clothes worn by stylish women during the Belle Époque (1871–1914) were quite similar to those from Charles Worth's time. By the late 1800s, the fashion world had grown. This was because wealthy women had more stable and independent lives and wanted practical clothes. However, Belle Époque fashions still had the detailed, rich style of the 1800s. Changing the basic shape of clothes was rare, so different decorations were used to make new seasonal styles.

Expensive and showy clothing defined the fashion of this decade. The outfits from designers were fancy, detailed, and carefully made. The curvy S-Bend shape was popular until about 1908. This shape was created by an S-Bend corset, which pushed the chest forward. Padding and careful placement of decorations on clothes also helped create the "S" shape. Towards the end of the decade, Paul Poiret introduced designs without petticoats or corsets. This was a huge change, as women's waists had been shaped by corsets for centuries.

The Maison Redfern was the first fashion house to offer sportswear and tailored suits for women. These were based on men's styles. Their practical and elegant clothes quickly became a must-have for well-dressed women.

1910s: New Shapes and Influences

In the early 1910s, the fashionable shape became much softer and more flowing than in the 1800s. When the Ballets Russes performed Scheherazade in Paris in 1910, people became very interested in Orientalism (styles from the East). The designer Paul Poiret was one of the first to bring this into fashion. Poiret's clients wore flowing pants, turbans, and bright colors, looking like harem girls or geisha in exotic kimono. Poiret also created the first outfit women could put on without help from a maid.

The Art Deco movement began to appear, and its influence was clear in many designs. Simple felt hats, turbans, and soft tulle replaced the headwear styles of the 1800s. It's also important that the first real fashion shows were organized during this time by Jeanne Paquin. She was one of the first female designers and the first Parisian designer to open branches in other cities like London.

Two very important designers of this time were Jacques Doucet and Mariano Fortuny. Doucet was excellent at layering soft colors. His delicate, flowing dresses reminded people of the shimmering light in Impressionist paintings. His wealthy customers loved his fluid lines and light, see-through materials.

The Venice-based designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo was unique. For his dresses, he invented a special pleating process and new dyeing methods. He named his long, clinging dresses Delphos. Each dress was made from a single piece of fine silk. Its special color came from being dipped many times in dyes that suggested moonlight or reflections on the Venetian lagoon. Fortuny used ingredients like Mexican cochineal and indigo from the Far East. Many famous people, like Isadora Duncan, loved his designs.

Changes in clothing during World War I were due to need more than fashion. As more women had to work, they needed clothes better suited for their new tasks. Social events were put aside for more urgent work, and the need to mourn the many dead meant darker colors became common. A new, simple, single-color look appeared. By 1915, fashionable skirts rose above the ankle, and by 1920, they reached mid-calf.

Golden Age of French Fashion

The time between the two World Wars is often called the Golden Age of French fashion. It was a period of big changes. High fashion found new customers among film actresses, American heiresses, and the wives and daughters of rich business owners.

1920s: Flappers and Freedom

Fashionable Hollywood actress Louise Brooks.

After World War I, fashion changed a lot. Big hairstyles gave way to short bobs. Long-train dresses were replaced by pinafores above the knee. Corsets were no longer worn, and women started borrowing clothes from men's wardrobes, choosing to dress like boys. At first, many designers didn't like this new androgynous (boyish) style. But by 1925, they fully embraced it. A flat, waistless shape became popular. Fancy feather boas, embroidery, and showy accessories balanced the simple clothes. The flapper style became very popular with young women. The cloche hat was widely worn, and sportswear became popular for both men and women. Designers like Jean Patou and Coco Chanel made the sporty look fashionable.

The great designer Coco Chanel was a major figure in fashion then. She was known for her strong personality and her stylish, modern designs. Chanel helped make the bob haircut popular, along with the little black dress. She also made costume jewelry and knitwear more respected.

Two other important French designers of the 1920s were Jeanne Lanvin and Jean Patou. Jeanne Lanvin started as a hat maker. She made such beautiful outfits for her young daughter that people began asking for copies. Lanvin's name appeared in fashion books around 1901, but she became most successful in the 1920s. The Lanvin style used complex decorations, dazzling embroidery, and beaded designs in light, clear, floral colors. By 1925, Lanvin made many different products, including sportswear, furs, and men's fashion. Her wide approach to fashion was a sign of how big fashion houses would later grow.

Jean Patou's style was never mainstream. It was very original and known for its simple elegance. This won him fame, especially in America. Many of his clothes had clean lines, geometric patterns, and mixed luxury with practicality. They were designed for the new interest in outdoor life. The famous tennis champion Suzanne Lenglen was a well-known supporter of his style.

In men's fashion, there was a growing trend for less formal clothes, especially among Americans. This was reflected in styles that focused on youth and comfort. In the past, a well-dressed man had a special outfit for every event. But young men in the 1920s started wearing the same soft wool suit all day. Short suit jackets replaced the old long jackets, which were now only for formal events. Men had many sports clothes, including sweaters and short pants called knickers. For evening wear, a short tuxedo was more fashionable than a tail-coat. The slim "London cut" suit was very popular.

Fair Isle patterns became very popular for both men and women. Heels were often over two inches high and helped make two-tone shoes popular. Salvatore Ferragamo and André Perugia were important shoe designers. Many silent film stars, like Louise Brooks, greatly influenced fashion in the 1920s. The fun, forward-looking fashions of the 1920s slowly stopped after the Wall Street Crash of 1929. They were replaced by a more traditional style.

1930s: Elegance in Hard Times

In the 1930s, as people felt the effects of the Great Depression, many designers found that hard times were not for trying new things. Fashion became more balanced. It aimed to keep the progress women had made while bringing back a subtle and comforting elegance. Overall, 1930s clothing was serious and modest, showing the difficult economic situation. Women's fashions moved away from the bold 1920s style to a more romantic, feminine shape. The waistline returned, hemlines dropped to almost ankle-length, and the bust was appreciated again. Backless evening gowns and soft, slim-fitting day dresses became popular. The female body was shaped into a more classic form, and slim, athletic bodies were in style. The interest in outdoor activities led designers to create what we now call "sportswear."

Two of the most important designers of the 1930s were Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet. Elsa Schiaparelli showed her first collection in 1929 and was immediately called 'one of the rare innovators'. With her exciting designs, Schiaparelli changed fashion's basic rules. Her first sweater created a stir: it was black with a trompe-l'œil (trick-the-eye) white bow. Schiaparelli was friends with artists like Salvador Dalí, who designed patterns for her. Her salon at 21 Place Vendôme was always busy.

Madeleine Vionnet found her ideas in ancient statues. She created timeless and beautiful gowns that would look good on a Greek statue. She was the master of the bias cut (cutting diagonally across the fabric). She made evening dresses that fit the body without too much fuss, using a flowing and elegant line. Her perfect draping of chiffon and silk created a wonderfully balanced effect. Vionnet's successful cuts made her famous until she retired in 1939.

Mainbocher, the first American designer to work in Paris, was also important. His designs were simple yet very elegant, often using the bias cut that Vionnet pioneered. The luxury company Hermès started selling handmade printed silk scarves in the early 1930s. They also made the zipper popular. Towards the end of the decade, women's fashions became a bit more imposing with broad shoulders, possibly influenced by Elsa Schiaparelli. Men's fashions continued the informal, practical trend from the end of World War I.

Mid-20th Century Fashion

After World War II, Paris's fame as the world's fashion center began to fade. A new youth style appeared in the 1950s, changing what fashion focused on. In the West, the old difference between high society and the working class was challenged. A new generation of young people wanted to enjoy the benefits of a growing consumer society. Wealth was shown less openly than before. As old European class systems changed, the outward signs of status became less important. Europe was ready for good quality ready-to-wear clothes, like those in America. This was important because rising costs were making handmade fashion less common. Meanwhile, new technologies made it easier to make better quality clothes in factories.

Parisian high fashion tried to defend itself against factory-made clothes, but it didn't work much. As the old world changed, fashion changes were one of the most visible signs of society's big shake-up. Soon, women who could only afford cheaper clothes would have many more choices. Because they made much larger quantities, production cycles were longer than for custom-made clothes. This meant designers had to guess more than a year ahead what customers would want. A new power took over: the style from the street, which further challenged the strict rules of high fashion.

1940s: Wartime Styles and New Looks

Many fashion houses closed during the occupation of Paris in World War II, including Maison Vionnet and Maison Chanel. Several designers, like Mainbocher, moved permanently to New York. During the war, fabric was needed for soldiers. For everyone else, it was rationed. Only four meters of cloth were allowed for a coat and a little over one meter for a blouse. No belt could be wider than 3 centimeters. Everyone, from homemakers to designers, had to reuse old fabric or create new styles from old clothes.

High fashion tried its best to continue. Humor and fun became a way to resist the occupying forces, and fashion survived. Hats became very important during this time. They were often made from scraps of material that would have been thrown away, like paper and wood shavings. Important hat designers included Pauline Adam and Rose Valois.

Paris's isolated situation in the 1940s allowed American designers to show their creativity. During World War II, Vera Maxwell created simple, coordinated outfits. Bonnie Cashin made boots a major fashion accessory. In 1944, she started making original sportswear. Claire McCardell, Anne Klein, and Cashin were a great trio of women who built the foundation of American sportswear. They showed that ready-to-wear could be elegant and comfortable for modern women.

The zoot suit became popular among young men during the war years. Many actresses of the time, like Rita Hayworth and Marlene Dietrich, had a big impact on popular fashion.

The designer Christian Dior created a huge stir with his first collection in February 1947. This collection had dresses with emphasized busts, tiny waists, and very full skirts. They highlighted the feminine hourglass shape, much like the style of the Belle Époque. The lavish use of fabric and the feminine elegance appealed to customers after the war. This made Dior famous very quickly. The editor of American Harper's Bazaar, Carmel Snow, famously exclaimed, 'This is a new look!'

1950s: Revival and New Designers

In the 1950s, fashion looked to the past rather than being completely new. Society, which had believed in progress in the 1920s and 1930s, was now more cautious. Even though women could vote, work, and drive, they chose to wear dresses made of rich materials, with corseted waists and swirling skirts that reached mid-calf. As fashion looked back, high fashion had a comeback. Many star designers became very successful from the fast growth of media.

Throughout the 1950s, women worldwide still followed the trends of Parisian high fashion, though this would be the last time. Three of the most important Parisian designers were Cristóbal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, and Pierre Balmain. Cristóbal Balenciaga made his fashion debut in the late 1930s. But it was after the war that his amazing creativity became clear. In 1951, he completely changed the shape of clothes, making shoulders wider and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later became the chemise dress in 1957. By 1959, his work led to the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats like kimonos. He was a master of fabric design. Balenciaga was also one of the few designers who could design, cut, and sew his own models.

Hubert de Givenchy opened his first fashion house in 1952. He caused a sensation with his separates, which could be mixed and matched. His most famous was the Bettina blouse. He soon opened boutiques in other cities. He was a man of great taste and was a key part of the elegant world he helped define.

Pierre Balmain opened his own salon in 1945. He had his greatest success with a series of collections called 'Jolie Madame' from 1952 onwards. Balmain's idea of an elegantly dressed woman was very Parisian. It was shown in the tailored glamour of the "New Look", with its full bust, narrow waist, and full skirts. He was skilled at cutting and combining fabrics in subtle colors. His sophisticated clients liked luxurious elegance, simple tailoring, and a more natural look. Besides his high fashion work, he also started a ready-to-wear line called Florilege and successful perfumes.

Also important was the return of Coco Chanel to the fashion world. She disliked the "New Look." After closing her salons during the war, she made a comeback in 1954, at over seventy years old. On February 5, she showed a collection with many ideas that would be copied worldwide. These included her famous braided suit with gold chains, shiny costume jewelry, silk blouses matching suit linings, sleek tweeds, and quilted bags on chains.

Despite being a high fashion designer, American-born Mainbocher also designed military and civilian uniforms. In 1952, he redesigned the Women Marines uniform, making it both feminine and practical. He also designed uniforms for the WAVES (Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service) in 1942, and for the Girl Scouts of the USA and the American Red Cross in 1948.

Dior's "New Look" (from 1947) brought back the popularity of girdles and all-in-one corselettes. In the early 1950s, many fashion houses started their own lines of "foundationwear." In 1957, Jane Russell wore the "Cantilever" bra, designed to enhance a curvy look. The invention of Lycra in 1959 changed the underwear industry.

After the war, the American look became very popular for men in Europe. This included broad shoulders, floral ties, straight-legged pants, and shirts often worn untucked. Some London makers brought back an elegant Edwardian style in men's fashion. This tight-fitting retro look was meant for traditionalists. It became popular as the Teddy boy style. The Italian look, made popular by designers like Brioni, was adopted by a generation of elegant young people. Plaid was very common in 1950s men's fashion for shirts and suits. The "ducktail" haircut was often seen as a symbol of teenage rebellion.

In the second half of the 1950s, there was a general move towards less formal clothing, especially for men. The fedora and Homburg hat, as well as trench coats, became less common. This trend had already started earlier on the West Coast of the US.

Hollywood designers created a special kind of glamour for American film stars. Outfits worn by Marilyn Monroe or Grace Kelly were widely copied. A costume worn by an actress in a Hollywood movie reached a much larger audience than a dress photo in a magazine. Hollywood designers focused on their own classic style. It was meant to be timeless, flattering, and good for photos. Using luxurious materials like sequins, chiffon, and fur, the clothes were simply cut. They often included a memorable detail, like a low-cut back on a dress. Important Hollywood designers from the 1930s to the 1950s included Edith Head and William Travilla. Everyday women's clothing included long coats, hats with small veils, and leather gloves. Knee-length dresses with pearl necklaces became popular, thanks to First Lady Mamie Eisenhower. Short, permed hair was the standard women's hairstyle.

By the end of the decade, factory-made, off-the-rack clothing was much more popular. This gave the public more access to fashionable styles than ever before.

1960s: Youthful Revolution

Until the 1960s, Paris was the world's fashion center. But between 1960 and 1969, fashion changed completely. From the 1960s onward, there would never be just one main trend. Instead, there were many possibilities, linked to other parts of people's lives. Wealth and the rise of a distinct teenager culture, along with the counterculture movement, all had big effects on fashion.

After 30 years of traditional clothing, the '60s saw a return to the 1920s. Women again adopted a childlike look with bobbed haircuts and increasingly shorter clothes. At the start of the decade, skirts were knee-length. But they steadily became shorter until the mini-skirt appeared in 1965. By the end of the decade, they were well above the stocking top, making tights necessary.

Many radical fashion changes happened in London. Talented designers like Mary Quant (known for launching the mini skirt) and Barbara Hulanicki (founder of the famous boutique Biba) were key. Paris also had new and revolutionary designers. These included Pierre Cardin (known for his visionary designs) and André Courrèges (known for futuristic outfits and launching the mini skirt). Yves Saint Laurent was known for his revolutionary yet elegant fashions. The main places for these new young designers were small boutiques. They sold outfits made in small quantities and limited sizes. However, not all designers liked the new style. In 1965, Coco Chanel resisted the exposure of the knee. Balenciaga continued to make feminine and traditional designs.

The basic shape and style of the time were simple, neat, and colorful. Hats were almost gone, except for special events. Lower kitten heels replaced stilettos. Pointed shoes changed to chisel-shaped toes in 1961 and almond toes in 1963. Flat boots also became popular with very short dresses in 1965.

The '60s saw many popular hairstyles for the first time, including bobs, pageboy cuts, and beehives.

Two important designers in the 1960s were Emilio Pucci and Paco Rabanne. Emilio Pucci's sportswear designs and prints made him famous beyond high society. His sleek shift dresses and beachwear created a 'Puccimania'. This was part of a movement to free the female form. His designs are still linked to the 1960s. Francisco Rabaneda Cuervo (later Paco Rabanne) opened his first fashion house in 1966. From the start, he made very modern designs. Instead of normal dress materials, he created clothes from aluminum and scrap metal. His designs were experimental and matched what modern, adventurous young women wanted to wear. He was also the first fashion designer to use black models.

The main change in men's fashion in the 1960s was the weight of the fabric. Lighter materials and manufacturing methods created suits with a different look. They were closer to the body's natural shape. The spread of jeans sped up a big change in men's wardrobes. Young men grew their hair longer and added color, even floral patterns, to their shirts. The polo neck never replaced the tie. Workman's jackets and the Mao jacket became popular.

In the early 1960s, there were important partnerships between celebrities and high-fashion designers. The most famous were Audrey Hepburn with Givenchy and Jackie Kennedy with Oleg Cassini. Many models, like Twiggy, also had a big effect on fashion. Early in the decade, culottes were in style, and the bikini finally became fashionable in 1963. The hippie movement later in the decade also strongly influenced clothing styles. This included bell-bottom jeans, tie-dye fabrics, and paisley prints.

1970s: Disco and Diversity

The 1970s were called the 'me' decade. "Please yourself" was a popular saying. Some saw it as the end of good taste. The decade started with a continuation of the hippie look from the late 1960s. This included kaftans, Indian scarves, and floral-print tunics. Jeans remained frayed and bell-bottomed. Tie dye was still popular, and unisex fashion grew. A big movement for civil rights for black people, along with soul music from the USA, created an interest in Africa and African culture. A "radical chic" style appeared, influenced by people like James Brown and the Black Panthers. This included afro hairstyles and platform shoes. During the 1970s, brands greatly increased their share of the international market. Hems started dropping in 1974 to below the knee. After 1975, fashion was dominated by the "disco look." This included feathered women's haircuts and, for men, the three-piece leisure suit. Bell-bottomed pants stayed popular throughout the decade.

Perhaps the two most innovative designers in 1970s France were Kenzo Takada and Sonia Rykiel. Kenzo was the undisputed star of Parisian fashion in the 1970s. He got ideas from all over the world, mixing Western and Eastern folk influences with great joy. With his flowing lines, unusual prints, and clever accessories, he turned the fashion world upside down. Sonia Rykiel, the queen of tight-fitting knits, designed her first sweaters with reversed seams in 1974. She created a range of very individual clothes that could be worn almost anywhere. The Rykiel style, with its fluid knitted garments, dark blacks, rhinestones, and little crocheted hats, became very popular in America.

Because of punk, London kept a lot of influence over fashion. Styles based on the 1920s, 30s, 40s, and 50s were popular for much of the decade. This was helped by Hollywood films like The Godfather and The Great Gatsby. In Japan, boutiques in Tokyo's fashionable Harajuku district sold many updated versions of traditional British and American looks.

In the United States, the general trend was towards simpler and longer skirts. Pants, however, were very popular. Jeans became an accepted part of American fashion in the 1970s. They gained respect by being included in sportswear collections. The new stars of American ready-to-wear adapted the best of European ideas to the large American clothing industry. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren rose to fame at the same time. They designed clothes for men and women in a new world. Two opposing movements dominated fashion in the U.S. during the 1970s. One was the tailored, unisex look. The other was a flowing, unstructured style with a strong feeling of 1930s glamour. The most influential American designer of the time, Roy Halston Frowick (known as Halston), belonged to the latter. He became a celebrity in New York. His talent was combining custom-made clothes for special occasions with comfort and relaxation. With his kaftans and tunics, he was an icon of the era.

Geoffrey Beene was praised for his elegant cuts and use of black and white. He was most successful with his simple designs. His smart dresses and well-cut suits helped American women avoid over-accessorizing. Bill Blass, who started his own line in 1962, traveled across the United States to hear what his customers wanted. His disciplined style was especially liked by businesswomen. Betsey Johnson started designing for the boutique Paraphernalia. Using vinyl and metallic fabrics, she brought a new spirit of fun to New York in the 1970s.

In popular fashion, the glam rock style of clothing, worn by rock stars like David Bowie, was very influential, especially in the United Kingdom. The designer Elio Fiorucci had a similar look. His boutique in Milan sold bright rubber boots, plastic daisy sandals, fake fur, and Pop Art-inspired jackets.

During the 1970s, new menswear boutiques appeared. They aimed to change the look and feel of a traditionally "difficult" trade. Selling fashionable clothes to young men in the late 1960s was still seen as questioning their masculinity in many circles. Men's appearance changed more in the 1970s than in a whole century. Many designers who changed men's fashion owed a lot to Pierre Cardin. This included narrow shoulders, tight-fitting lines, no tie, and waisted jackets. Work clothes inspired a less formal style. Designers looked beyond the traditional suit, adopting a unisex look or using second-hand clothes. Sometimes this casual male dressing, often called 'hippie', became a recognized style. At other times, as part of a retro movement, designers brought back 1930s elegance.

Italian fashion also developed significantly during this period. In the 1970s, Milan became the second most important international fashion center after Paris, thanks to its ready-to-wear industry. Italy offered a glamour that was different from Parisian high fashion. Italian fashion was luxurious and easy to wear. The two most influential Italian designers were probably Giorgio Armani and Nino Cerruti. Giorgio Armani showed his first collection for women in 1975. From the start, his line was dynamic, urban, and understated, with a boyish inspiration. Armani offered a controlled style that appealed to the growing number of women in the workforce. This was the beginning of a huge career, which grew further when Emporio Armani was launched in 1981. In 1957, Nino Cerruti opened the menswear boutique Hitman in Milan. In 1976, he showed his first collection for women. Two years later, he launched his first perfume.

Late 20th Century Fashion

In the late 20th century, fashions quickly crossed international borders. Popular Western styles were adopted worldwide. Many designers from outside the West had a big impact on fashion. Synthetic materials like Lycra/spandex and viscose became widely used. After two decades of looking to the future, fashion once again looked to the past for ideas.

1980s: Power Dressing and Pop Culture

Society in the 1980s was interested in 'the spectacle'. This focus on image was very good for the fashion industry, which had never been so trendy. Fashion shows became big, televised events, high on the social calendar. Appearance was linked to performance, which was very important to a generation of young urban professionals. Their desire to look the part was linked to a craving for power. Disco music quickly lost popularity as the decade began, along with its related clothing styles. By 1982, the last signs of 1970s fashion were gone.

During the 1980s, the mullet became the standard men's haircut. Women wore large, square-cut perms, though there were many variations. Jumpsuits became popular for women. For men, skinny neckties and wraparound sunglasses were in style. Also in the '80s, aerobics was popular, bringing Spandex leggings and headbands into fashion.

The two French designers who best defined the look of the period were Thierry Mugler and Azzedine Alaia. Thierry Mugler's designs combined Hollywood retro and futurism. They featured rounded hips, sharp shoulders, and a hint of a space heroine. Mugler's glamorous dresses were a big success and marked the end of the hippie era's unstructured look. Known for his amazing combinations, Azzedine Alaia greatly influenced the shape of women's fashion in the 1980s. He was a master of techniques previously only known in high fashion. He experimented with many new materials, like spandex and viscose.

Designers like Claude Montana also created typical looks of the era. His broad-shouldered designs, often made of leather, would have fit into Thierry Mugler's futuristic world. Christian Lacroix shocked the high fashion world with his ruffled skirts, embroidered corsets, and polka-dotted crinolines, which reminded people of flamenco.

A number of promising new designers appeared in the 1980s. Josephus Thimister, an amazing technician, created 'handkerchief' dresses. Made of fabric squares, they were more complex than they seemed. Many Parisian parties in the 1980s were livened up by his fluid and original dresses. Guy Paulin was one of the first designers to promote a severe, plain, and uncluttered look. His clothes were classic and made for comfort and simplicity. Under his own name, Joseph designed luxurious knitwear in classic lines. Carolina Herrera, known for her elegance, launched collections in 1981 aimed at women like herself. They featured perfectly cut, high-quality clothes and attractive evening dresses.

Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto offered a look that was a complete break from the popular fashion image of the time. Flat shoes, no make-up, and modesty were the hallmarks of this modern look. Eventually, it started to include details from past fashions. These "anarchists of fashion" had a legendary influence on the shape of clothes at the end of the 20th century.

In American fashion, the clinging style of Donna Karan and the casual sophistication of Ralph Lauren were very influential. Donna Karan brought a very personal and feminine approach to the simple, casual look that dominated American ready-to-wear. Starting her own label in 1984, her designs quickly became popular with active urban women. In 1971, Ralph Lauren opened a boutique for both men and women in Beverly Hills. His aristocratic style, at prices average Americans could afford, caused a sensation. For an elite facing avant-garde fashions, it was a rallying point, supporting a classic look adapted for an active life. Lauren was equally successful with his sportswear and jeans, reaching a wide range of social classes and age groups.

Central to the success of a new wave of American sportswear was the Perry Ellis label, started in 1978. It used color and natural fibers well in its elegant variations on basic items. Norma Kamali, with her short skirts made of sweatshirts, made jogging look fashionable. Kamali also created the popular 'rah-rah skirt'. The Adidas sports label also became incredibly popular in the 1980s. The hip hop group Run DMC even released the song 'My Adidas' in 1986. The famous shoe designer Manolo Blahnik also became famous in the 1980s.

The many trends that bloomed in the 80s were cut short by the economic slowdown that began in the early 1990s. This largely destroyed the optimistic mood that helps the fashion industry.

1990s: Minimalism and Brands

In the 1990s, it was no longer fashionable to follow trends blindly. This was a sharp contrast to the very trendy 1970s and 1980s. The fear of being underdressed finally replaced the fear of overdressing. Fashion in the 1990s focused on a new standard: minimalism. Simple styles became popular. Despite some designers trying to keep pretty dresses alive, by the end of the decade, the idea of flashy finery had almost disappeared. Besides the product's style, its promotion in the media became crucial for its success and image. The financial pressures of the decade hurt the development of new talent and reduced the freedom of established designers.

Clothes from ready-to-wear retailers like The Gap and Banana Republic became very popular. They met the needs of women who simply wanted comfortable, wearable clothes. Retro clothing inspired by the 1960s and 1970s was popular for much of the 1990s.

The famous Italian fashion house Gucci was created in 1921 by Guccio Gucci. It originally sold luxury leather goods. By the end of the 1960s, under Guccio Gucci's children, the brand had expanded to include many products with a distinct Latin glamour. However, it was only in the 1990s, when the Gucci family gave up control to Invest Corp., that the business truly began to succeed. They hired an unknown designer, Tom Ford, as design director in 1994. Ford created a huge wave with his chic and shocking collections, perfumes, revamped boutiques, and advertising campaigns. In 1998, Gucci was named "European Company of the year." Today, it is one of the biggest-selling fashion brands worldwide.

In the 1990s, the designer label Prada became a true creative force in fashion. The Milanese company was founded in 1923, two years after Gucci. Like Gucci, it sold high-quality shoes and leather. It wasn't until the 1980s that Miuccia Prada, the founder's niece, started producing ready-to-wear fashion. She gained fame for her subtle, sleek, yet luxurious style. It appealed to wealthy young women who preferred understated elegance to flashy extravagance.

In America, three of the most influential designers were Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, and Calvin Klein. Michael Kors started his own business in 1980. But it was in the 1990s that he became most popular. His knowledge of trends allowed him to create simple, well-cut clothes. Their sophistication appealed to a new group of wealthy American customers drawn to the new minimalist chic. Marc Jacobs is one of the most notable American designers of the period. Unlike many American designers in the past, he was a designer in the European sense, not just a coordinator of mass-produced clothes. He was one of the most promising talents in fashion. The LVMH group offered him the job of designing a ready-to-wear line for Louis Vuitton in the late 1990s. Calvin Klein was one of the first designers to see the globalization of world markets. He marketed his fashions, perfumes, and accessories across the US, Europe, and Asia, achieving unmatched success.

The group of designers known as the 'Antwerp Six' (all graduates of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp), who first appeared in the 1980s, became famous in the 1990s. Three of the most influential were Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten, and Walter Van Beirendonck. Ann Demeulemeester showed great confidence from her first collection in 1991. She built her designs on contradictions, adding contrasting elements to her flowing fashions. Dries van Noten's work was based on strong tailoring skills. He added subtle touches of fantasy in his personal style. Walter Van Beirendonck, who appeared in 1995, produced very futuristic designs under his label W & LT (Wild and Lethal Trash).

In Italy, Gianni Versace and Dolce & Gabbana broke away from the serious fashions of the 1990s. The British designer Vivienne Westwood created many influential collections in the early 1990s. The London-based designer Rifat Ozbek was also popular. His youthful style mixed references to India, Africa, and his native Turkey with clever takes on historical clothing.

Rap music had a strong influence on popular and street fashion in the early and mid-1990s. Hip hop fans wore huge baggy jeans, like those worn in American prisons, with big patterned shirts and heavy black shoes. The sports brand Nike was very popular. Materials like spandex were increasingly used for sportswear. Growing awareness of the environment and animal rights led even top fashion houses like Chanel to use fake fur and natural fibers in their collections.

21st Century Fashion

2000s: Global Mix and Mashup

Fashion in the 2000s is often described as a global mashup. Trends mixed vintage styles, global and ethnic clothing (like boho), and the fashions of many music subcultures. Hip-hop fashion was generally the most popular among young people, followed by the retro-inspired indie look later in the decade.

People usually aged 25 and older adopted a dressy casual style that was popular throughout the decade. Globalization also influenced the decade's clothing trends. Middle Eastern and Asian dress were included in mainstream European, American, and Australasian fashion. Also, eco-friendly and ethical clothing, like recycled fashions, were important.

In the early 2000s, many mid and late 1990s fashions remained popular worldwide. At the same time, newer trends were introduced. The later years of the decade saw a big return of clothing designs mainly from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s.

2010s: Hipster to Athleisure

The 2010s were defined by hipster fashion and athleisure (athletic wear worn as everyday clothes). There was also a return of austerity-era styles and alternative fashions. Swag-inspired outfits, 1980s-style neon streetwear, and unisex 1990s-style elements influenced by grunge and skater fashions were popular. Later in the decade, social media influencers became very important in the Western world. They were paid to promote fast fashion brands on platforms like Pinterest and Instagram.

Popular global fashion brands of the decade included Adidas, Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Gucci, H&M, Louis Vuitton, Nike, and Supreme.

2020s: Nostalgia and Social Media

The fashions of the 2020s are different from 2010s fashion. They feature a nostalgia for older styles. They have been largely inspired by styles from the late 1990s to mid-2000s, the 1980s, and the late 1960s to early 1970s. Early in the decade, several publications noted that fashion trends and nostalgia cycles were becoming shorter. Fashion was also shaped by the COVID-19 pandemic. This had a major impact on the fashion industry and led to changes in shopping habits.

In the 2020s, many companies, including current fast fashion giants like Shein and Temu, have been using social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram for marketing. Marketing strategies involving third parties, especially influencers and celebrities, have become common. E-commerce platforms that promote small businesses, like Depop and Etsy, grew by offering vintage, homemade, or resold clothing from individual sellers. Thrifting (buying second-hand clothes) has also become very popular.