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Mazandaran province

استان مازندران
Damavand
Rice Mazandaran
Mazandaransea
Abbasabad Garden
Veresk Bridge
Bonyad-e Pahlavi Hotel
Lafor Lake
Glacial lake
Badab-e Surt
Location of Mazandaran province in Iran
Location of Mazandaran province in Iran
Country Iran
Region Region 1
Capital Sari
Counties 22
Area
 • Total 23,833 km2 (9,202 sq mi)
Population
 (2016)
 • Total 3,073,943
 • Density 128.9784/km2 (334.053/sq mi)
Time zone UTC+03:30 (IRST)
ISO 3166 code IR-02
Main language(s) Mazandarani(Tabari)
HDI (2017) 0.845
very high · 4th

Mazandaran province (, Persian: استان مازندران, romanized: Ostân-e Mâzandarân; Mazanderani: مازرون, romanized: Mâzerun) is one of Iran's 31 provinces. It is located along the southern coast of the Caspian Sea. It also sits near the central Alborz mountain range in northern Iran. The province covers an area of about 23,842 square kilometers. It was officially created in 1937.

In 2016, Mazandaran had a population of over 3.2 million people. This makes it one of the most crowded provinces in Iran.

The province has many different natural resources. These include large amounts of oil and natural gas. Mazandaran has various natural places, from sandy beaches along the Caspian Sea to rugged, snow-covered Alborz mountains. This includes Mount Damavand, which is one of the highest peaks and volcanoes in Asia.

Mazandaran is a big producer of farmed fish. Aquaculture (raising fish in water) is an important part of its economy. This adds to the traditional strength of agriculture. Tourism is also a key industry. Many people from all over Iran love to visit this beautiful area. Mazandaran is also quickly becoming a center for biotechnology.

What's in a Name?

The name "Mazandaran" might mean "the gate or valley of the giants." It comes from old words meaning "giant" and "gate." The name has been used in the famous Persian book Shahnameh. In that book, Mazandaran was a land where giants (called divs) and sorcerers lived. It was known as a very hard place to conquer.

You can find places in Mazandaran today with "Div" in their names. For example, Div Asiyab, Div Cheshmeh, and Div Kela.

A Look Back in Time

Sassanid Music Plate 7thcentury
Sasanian silver-gilt plate showing musicians playing from the 7th century.

People have lived in this area for at least 75,000 years. Recent digs at Gohar Tape in Rostamkola show that cities existed here over 5,000 years ago. This makes it one of Iran's most important historical places. It played a big role in the cultural and urban growth of the region. Mazandaran is one of the oldest areas where people settled down. They did not move around like nomads.

The original people of this region are the Mazanderanis. They speak an Iranian language called Mazandarani. This language is similar to Gilaki and Sangiseri. It also has sounds like some Caucasian languages. This shows the long history of the region and its people.

In the early 1900s, Reza Shah built seven new roads and railways. These connected the northern Elbourz mountains to the southern slopes. This made Mazandaran and Gilan provinces known as "Shomal" (meaning "the North") to all Iranians. Mazandaran is a Caspian province in northern Iran. It is on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea. It shares borders with Russia (across the sea), Golestan, Semnan, Tehran, Alborz, Qazvin, and Gilan provinces. Sari is the largest city and the capital of Mazandaran province.

In 2014, Mazandaran province became part of Region 1. This was done to help with coordination and development across Iran's provinces.

Median Empire
Map of the Median Empire (600 BCE) showing where the Amardian tribe lived.
Fenner, Rest. Persis, Parthia, Armenia. 1835 (K)
Location of Tapuri, between Amardus and Hyrcania.
Vase with grape harvesting scenes BM 1 (edited)897.12-31.189
Vase with grape harvesting scenes from the Sasanid Empire.

Ancient Times

Before people who spoke Iranian languages arrived, the native people here were hunters and cattle herders. Old studies in caves like Hutu Man in Behshahr show people lived here around 9500 BCE. The Amard tribe lived in the mountains near the Caspian Sea. This included the area of modern Amol. The Tapuri tribe lived south of the Caspian Sea.

Gold cup kalardasht
Hyrcanian Golden Cup, from the 9th century BCE. Found in Kalardasht in Mazandaran.

The area of Mazandaran has been ruled by many different groups throughout history. There are old fortresses from the Parthian Empire and Sasanian Empire. Many old cemeteries are also found across the province. During these times, Mazandaran was part of Hyrcania, an important province.

In 662 CE, a large Muslim army tried to invade Tabarestan. This was ten years after the last Sasanian emperor died.

When the Sasanian Empire began, Gushnasp was the King of Mazandaran. His family had ruled the area for a long time. In 529–536, a Sasanian prince named Kawus ruled Mazandaran. This family ruled until 645 AD. Then, Gil Gilanshah joined Mazandaran with Gilan.

In 651, the Sasanid Empire fell. Most of its lands came under Arab rule. But the Caspian region of Iran, including Tabaristan, stayed independent for a while.

Islamic Era

Tabaristan remained separate from the Umayyad Caliphate. This was the Muslim empire that took over from the Sasanians. Local Zoroastrian families fought against Islam. A short-lived Shiite state also existed. Unlike most of Iran, Mazandaran kept a majority of Zoroastrians until the 12th century. This was because it was isolated and its people were strong fighters.

After the Islamic period, local ruling families were of three types. Some were old families from before Islam. Others were descendants of the Prophet Muhammad (called Alid sayyid). And some were other local families.

Alavids-map
Map of the Mazandaran Alavid emirate (864-929 AD).

The Bawandids were one of these ruling families. They ruled in three different periods. The first period was from 665 to 1007. The second was from 1073 to 1210. The third ruled from 1237 to 1349. They were under the control of the Mongols during this time.

Grablege Gohar Tepe
Gohar Tape Archaeological site.

In the 9th to 11th centuries, Rus' people often raided the Caspian Sea shores. They traveled as merchants along the Volga trade route. They sold furs, honey, and slaves. The first big raid happened in 913. About 500 ships arrived. They looted parts of Gorgan, Mazandaran, and Gilan. They took slaves and goods.

During the Safavid era, many Georgians, Circassians, and Armenians settled in Mazandaran. Their families still live there today. Many towns and villages still have "Gorji" (meaning Georgian) in their names. Most of these groups have now blended in with the local Mazandaranis.

Before Nader Shah ruled, the Russian army briefly took over the province. This was after a war in 1722–23. It was given back to Persia in 1735. Later wars with Russia in the 1800s meant that northern Iran, including Mazandaran, came under Russian influence.

Modern Times

During the rule of Fath-Ali Shah Qajar, Mazandaran was seen as a beautiful place for fun. The region remained independent until 1596. Then, Shah Abbas I made Mazandaran part of his Safavid empire. He made many Armenians, Circassians, and Georgians move to Mazandaran. A traveler named Pietro della Valle visited a town near Firuzkuh. He wrote that Mazandarani women did not wear veils. He also said they were very polite to strangers.

Today, Persia proper, Fars, Mazanderan on the Caspian Sea and many other lands of this empire are all full of Georgian and Circassian inhabitants. Most of them remain Christian to this day, but in a very crude manner, since they have neither priest nor minister to tend them.

—Pietro Della Valle

After the Safavid period, the Qajars began to expand from Mazandaran. Agha Mohammad Khan made Mazandaran part of his empire in 1782. On March 21, 1782, he made Sari his capital city. Mazandaran saw many local wars during these years. This led to the capital being moved from Sari to Tehran by Fath Ali Shah. Today, many new houses and bridges are built in Amol and Sari. Along the beach and in the forests, you can see many villas and modern homes.

Mazandaran has three international airports and three major sea ports. Millions of Iranian and foreign tourists visit the province each year. Many come for health tourism.

Geography and Nature

2009-05-13 Damavand from Abbasabad 08
Mount Damavand

Mazandaran is on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea. It borders Golestan, Semnan, and Tehran provinces. It also borders Qazvin and Gilan to the west.

Mazandaran province has two main parts: the coastal plains and the mountains. The Alborz Mountain Range forms a huge wall around the coastal strip and the plains near the Caspian Sea. Sea breezes and local winds create sandy hills. These hills form a low natural barrier between the sea and the plains. Snow often falls in the Alborz regions. These mountains run next to the Caspian Sea's southern coast. They divide the province into many separate valleys. The province has a mild, subtropical climate. The average temperature is 25 °C in summer and about 8 °C in winter. Snow can fall heavily in the mountains in winter, but it rarely snows at sea level.

Mazandaran has two main types of natural areas:

  • Caspian Hyrcanian mixed forests
  • Elburz Range forest steppe

The total wood from these forests is about 269,022 cubic metres (9,500,400 cu ft). The Hyrcanian forest covers about 965,000 ha (2,380,000 acres). Some parts are used for business, some are protected, and others are forest lands.

The Elburz Range forest steppe is a dry, mountainous area. It stretches for 1,000 kilometers south of the Caspian Sea. It covers about 63,300 square kilometres (24,400 sq mi). This area includes the southern and eastern slopes of the Alborz Mountains. The climate is dry, with rain mostly as winter snow.

Wildlife and Environment

The now extinct Caspian tiger and the Caspian horse once lived in Mazandaran province.

The 1971 Ramsar Convention was held in the city of Ramsar. This important meeting was about protecting wetlands around the world.

Mazandaran Relief Map
Relief map of Mazandaran area.

Mazandaran has many rivers and mountain streams. These flow from the mountains to the sea. A German traveler in 1771 noted 250 such streams in just eight miles. Some were so wide and deep that crossing them was impossible for weeks.

Climate

Alborz Mountains1
Central Alborz mountain range in Mazandaran province.

Mazandaran's climate is shaped by its location, the Alborz mountains, and its distance from the sea. These factors create three types of climate:

  • Moderate Caspian weather: Hot, humid summers and mild, humid winters. This is found in the western and central plains.
  • Moderate mountainous weather: Long, cold, freezing winters and mild, short summers. This is found at altitudes of 1,500 to 3,000 meters.
  • Cold mountainous weather: Long, freezing winters and short, cool summers. Snow often falls here, even into mid-summer.

How Mazandaran is Divided

Mazandaran.svg

Mazandaran is split into 22 counties. Each county is named after its main town. However, North Savadkuh County (Shirgah), Savadkuh County (Pol-e Sefid), and Simorgh County (Kiakola) are exceptions.

Mazandaran province population history
Administrative Divisions 2006 2011 2016
Abbasabad County1 47,591 52,832
Amol County 343,747 370,774 401,639
Babol County 464,538 495,472 531,930
Babolsar County 172,600 124,323 135,191
Behshahr County 154,957 155,247 168,769
Chalus County 119,559 122,736 116,542
Fereydunkenar County2 57,980 60,031
Galugah County 39,450 38,847 40,078
Juybar County 70,204 73,554 77,576
Kelardasht County3 23,648
Mahmudabad County 90,054 96,019 98,407
Miandorud County4 55,776 55,053
Neka County 104,753 111,944 119,511
North Savadkuh County5 24,834
Nowshahr County 116,334 128,647 138,913
Nur County 104,807 109,281 121,531
Qaem Shahr County 293,721 320,741 309,199
Ramsar County 67,675 68,323 74,179
Sari County 490,830 478,370 504,298
Savadkuh County 66,430 64,378 43,913
Simorgh County6 19,376
Tonekabon County 193,428 153,940 166,132
Total 2,893,087 3,073,943 3,283,582
1Separated from Tonekabon County
2Separated from Babolsar County
3Separated from Chalus County
4Separated from Sari County
5Separated from Savadkuh County
6Separated from Qaem Shahr County

Major Cities

Over 57% of Mazandaran's people live in cities. Here are some of the largest:

Rank City County Population
1 Sari Sari 309,820
2 Babol Babol 250,217
3 Amol Amol 237,528
4 Qaem Shahr Qaem Shahr 204,953
5 Behshahr Behshahr 94,702
6 Chalus Chalus 65,196
7 Neka Neka 60,991
8 Babolsar Babolsar 59,966
9 Tonekabon Tonekabon 55,434
10 Nowshahr Nowshahr 49,403
11 Fereydunkenar Fereydunkenar 38,154
12 Ramsar Ramsar 35,997

People and Languages

Mazandaran Population history chart.gif

The number of people living in Mazandaran has grown steadily over the last 50 years.

Most people in Mazandaran are Mazandarani. There are also smaller groups like Gilaks, Azerbaijanis, Kurds, Georgians, Armenians, Circassians, and Turkmen.

Mazandarani people are from the Tabari ethnic group. They speak the Mazandarani language. Their history goes back to the Tapuri people. This is why their land was once called Tapuria. The Tapuris were made to move to the south coast of the Caspian Sea long ago.

The native people of Sari, Shahi, Babol, Amol, Nowshahr, Chalus, and Tonekabon are Mazandarani. They speak the Mazandarani language.

The eastern Gilaki dialect is spoken in the valley of the Čālūs river. Kurdish tribes also settled in the Kojūr and Kalārdašt areas. Today, Kurds in Mazandaran are mostly known as Khajevand Kurds. They make up most of the population in cities like Kelardasht, Abbasabad, Nowshahr, Chalus, and Kajur.

The Gilaks are the largest minority group in Mazandaran. They speak the Gilaki language. They mostly live in Ramsar and Tonekabon. The Gilaki spoken in Ramsar has been influenced by the Mazandarani language.

A dialect of Azeri is spoken in the town of Galoogah.

Getting Around Mazandaran

Mazandaran Sevatcow Dowab
A railway bridge on the Trans Iranian Railroad in Savadkuh.

Train Travel

The Mazandaran train station was the first modern rail station in the city. It was built during the Pahlavi dynasty.

Roads

Mazandaran is connected to Tehran by three main roads:

  • Haraz road (between Amol and Rudehen)
  • Kandovan road (between Chalus and Karaj)
  • Firoozkooh road (through Savadkuh)

Airports

Mazandaran has domestic airports that connect it to other parts of Iran:

  • Dasht-e Naz Airport (serving the capital Sari)
  • Noshahr Airport
  • Ramsar International Airport

Railway

The North Railway Department of the Iranian Railways serves Mazandaran. This railway connects the province to Tehran in the south and Gorgan in the east. The cities of Sari, Qaemshahr, and Pol-e Sefid are important stations. The Trans-Iranian Railway was a huge project. It started in 1927 and finished in 1938. Reza Shah led this project, and it was built entirely with money from Iran. It links Tehran with the Persian Gulf and the Caspian Sea.

Culture and Fun

The battle of Mazandaran
The Battle History of Mazandaran.

In the famous Persian epic, Shahnameh, Mazandaran is mentioned in two parts. First, Fereydun sets his capital in Tamishe near Amol. Later, the hero Manuchehr returns to this capital after a victory.

In another part, a region called Mazandaran is mentioned during the time of Kai Kavoos. This area is mostly home to Div (demons). The legendary Iranian Shah Kaykavoos and the hero Rostam both go to Mazandaran to fight these demons.

However, this Mazandaran in the Shahnameh is not the same as the modern province. It is thought to be a land to the west of Iran. The current province was known as Tabaristan. The name Mazandaran came later.

In Gaston Leroux's book The Phantom of the Opera, one character used to be the police chief of Mazanderan.

New Year Traditions

The Tabarian New Year, or Neowrez, happens during the pintek days of the Tabarian Calendar. In the Mazandarani language, the year has 12 months of 30 days each, plus five extra days. It often starts on March 21. Neowrez Khani is a very strong and popular tradition of the Mazanderani people.

Festivals and Events

Tirgan is a mid-summer Iranian festival. It is celebrated every year on Tir 13 (July 3, 4, or 5). People celebrate by splashing water, dancing, and reciting poetry. They also eat traditional foods like spinach soup. Children tie rainbow-colored bands on their wrists. They wear them for ten days, then throw them into a stream. Other famous events include Varf Chal, an almost 800-year-old water ceremony. There is also Lochu Wrestling.

Music and Dance

Music in Mazandaran is connected to the daily lives of its people. The songs are often about forests, farming, and herding. The most famous dance here is the Shomali dance. Men also perform a stick dance. Popular music styles include Taleb and Zohre, Amiri Khani, and Katuli.

Tourism Hotspot

Over 15 million Iranian tourists visit Mazandaran every year. About 400,000 foreign tourists also come. The province has more than 800 registered historical and cultural sites. It also has 338 kilometers of shorelines, mineral springs in jungles and mountains, waterfalls, and caves. These are some of Mazandaran's main attractions. Mazandaran was chosen as the tourism capital for the Economic Cooperation Organization (ECO) member states in 2022. Mazandaran has many places for tourists to stay. These include 65 hotels, 51 motels, and 91 apartment hotels. There are also 293 eco-lodge complexes and 4,939 guest houses.

Places to See

Caspian Sea Coast in Mazandaran
Lake in Churet
Babolsar Sea
Sangeno Waterfall
Kangelo Castle in Savadkuh
Gorji Mahaleh Jungle in Behshahr
Huto and Kamarband Caves Behshahr
Castle Poolad Baladeh Nour
Haydar Amuli (Seyyed Se Tan) Tomb Tower in Amol, 15th century
Lajim Tower in Savadkuh
Restek tower in Dodangeh District Sari
Babol Museum
Moalagh Bridge in Amol
Namak Abrood Tourist resort
Cheshmeh Emarat in Behshahr
Kolbadi House in Sari
Ghost Lake in Nowshahr
Div Asiyab Spring in Larijan
Nassereddin Shah relief in Amol
Nima Yushij House in Yush Nour
Hasal Marsh in Chalus
Alimestan in Amol
  • Mount Damavand
  • Abbas Abad Garden, Behshahr
  • Mausoleum of Mir Bozorg
  • Kandolus
  • Tomb of Haydar Amuli
  • Safi Abad Palace
  • Ramsar Palace
  • Malek Bahman Castle
  • Veresk Bridge
  • Lar Dam
  • Alam-Kuh
  • Lar National Park
  • Badab-e Surt
  • Shahrak-e Namak Abrud
  • Huto and Kamarband Caves
  • Nassereddin Shah relief
  • Jameh Mosque of Amol
  • Elburz Range forest steppe
  • Shahandasht Waterfall
  • Shoormast Lake, Savadkuh
  • Kelardasht

Famous People from Mazandaran

Many important people in different fields come from Mazandaran province.

Writers and Poets

Musicians

  • Gholam Hossein Banan, a great singer.
  • Delkash, a popular singer.
  • Shervin Hajipour, a modern musician.

Architects

  • Omar Tiberiades (d.c.815), an astrologer and architect.
  • Abolhassan Sadighi, a famous sculptor and painter.

Film and TV Stars

Scientists and Scholars

Athletes

  • Abdollah Movahed, a wrestling legend.
  • Behdad Salimi, a strong weightlifter.
  • Hassan Yazdani, a famous wrestler.
  • Farhad Majidi, a popular footballer.
  • Alireza Firouzja, a chess grandmaster.

Important Figures

Haydar Amuli
Haydar Amuli
Gholam-Hossein Banan
Gholam-Hossein Banan
Emam-Ali Habibi
Emam-Ali Habibi
Ali Akbar Nategh-Nouri
Ali Akbar Nategh-Nouri
Mohammad Vali Khan Tonekaboni
Mohammad Vali Khan Tonekaboni
Hassan Yazdani
Hassan Yazdani
Hossein Ghods-Nakhai
Hossein Ghods-Nakhai
Behdad Salimi
Behdad Salimi
Abdollah Movahed
Abdollah Movahed
Omid Ebrahimi
Omid Ebrahimi
Fazlullah Nouri
Fazlullah Nouri
Hassan Hassanzadeh Amoli
Hassan Hassanzadeh Amoli
Mohammad Taqi Danesh Pajouh
Mohammad Taqi Danesh Pajouh
Parviz Natel-Khanlari
Parviz Natel-Khanlari
Hassan Esfandiari
Hassan Esfandiari
Esfandiar Rahim Mashaei
Esfandiar Rahim Mashaei
Abolhassan Sadighi
Abolhassan Sadighi
Alireza Firouzja
Alireza Firouzja
Delkesh
Delkash
  • Reza Shah Pahlavi, Shah of Iran from 1925 to 1941.
  • Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran.
  • Abbas the Great Shah, a powerful Safavid ruler.
  • Ali Larijani, a notable politician.
  • Mohammad Vali Khan Tonekaboni, a historical political figure.

Mazandaran Today

Delicious Food

Torsh kebab
Kebab and Rice.

The food in Mazandaran is rich in seafood. This is because it is located by the Caspian Sea. Rice is eaten with almost every meal. The food changes depending on the region. Coastal areas use fish, while mountain areas use local herbs.

Economy and Industry

Caviar on Black (4317534324)
Caviar.

Mazandaran is one of the five richest provinces in Iran. Its oil wealth has helped industries like food processing, cement, textiles, and fishing (especially caviar). Iran's Cultural Heritage Organization lists nearly 630 historical and cultural sites here. Many of these attract tourists. Farmers in the lowlands grow Rice, grains, fruits, cotton, tea, tobacco, and sugarcane. They also produce Flowers, Mineral water, caviar, Dairy products, and silk. Mazandaran produces about one million tons of rice each year. This is 42% of Iran's total rice production. It also meets 50% of the country's citrus fruit needs. The province is the only place in Iran that produces kiwi. Mazandaran has 3,500 industrial and production units. It has 460,000 hectares of farmland. This land produces about 6 million tons of farm products every year. Over 10% of the value added in Iran's agriculture comes from Mazandaran.

Exports

In 2017, Mazandaran exported goods worth almost $800 million. Half of these were exported from customs outside the province. The main exports were dairy products (57%), food products (12%), industrial goods (10%), pipes and profiles (8%), and cement (7%). Mazandaran exports to countries like Germany, Russia, Iraq, France, Turkey, India, and the United Arab Emirates.

Innovation and Growth

Mazandaran is quickly becoming a center for tourist activities, innovation, biotechnology, and civil engineering.

Oil and Gas

From 1951 to 1978, many wells were drilled near mud volcanoes. These wells mostly produced natural gas. However, it was found that continuing these operations would not be profitable. Mazandaran exports 10 thousand tons of oil and an unknown amount of gas to Asian countries.

Key Facts

  • 9th in Iran for industrial units.
  • 5th in Iran for general industry.
  • 4th in Iran for tooling machines.
  • 2nd in Iran for coal.
  • 1st in Iran for livestock and agricultural products.
  • 1st in Iran for granite.
  • 1st in Iran for fluorine.
  • 1st in Iran for flowers and ornamental plants.
  • 1st in Iran for citrus exports.
  • 1st in Iran for food product exports.

Schools and Universities

Babol University of Technology
Noshirvani University of Technology.

Some of the main universities in Mazandaran are:

  • University of Mazandaran, Babolsar
  • Mazandaran University of Medical Sciences, Sari
  • Babol Noshirvani University of Technology, Babol
  • Sari Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources University, Sari
  • Shomal University, Amol

Sports

Mazandaran has won 19% of Iran's medals in the Olympics. This is the largest share among all provinces. They have won 7 gold, 4 silver, and 4 bronze medals. For many years, Mazandaran has produced many great wrestlers. Football and volleyball are also very popular. Many players from Mazandaran play in the Premier League and the national team. Other successful sports include weightlifting, Taekwondo, table tennis, boxing, and karate. Some famous teams from the province are Kalleh Mazandaran VC, Shamoushak Noshahr F.C., and F.C. Nassaji Mazandaran. Kalleh has won the Iranian Volleyball Super League Championship twice.

Sister Provinces

Mazandaran has friendly relationships with other regions around the world:

  • Russia Astrakhan, Russia
  • Italy Marche, Italy
  • Tanzania Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
  • Kyrgyzstan Issyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan
  • Vietnam Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Images for kids

See Also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Provincia de Mazandarán para niños

  • Mazandarani people
  • List of Mazanderanis
  • Amardi
  • Sasanian dynasty
  • Maziar
  • Tabaristan
  • Dabuyid dynasty
  • Pahlavi dynasty
  • Alborz (Elburz) mountain range topics
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