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Wallingford
Market town and civil parish
Wallingford St Peters Bridge.JPG
Wallingford Bridge with St Peter's Church
Wallingford town council coat of arms.jpg
Wallingford Town Council coat of arms
Wallingford is located in Oxfordshire
Wallingford
Wallingford
Area 3.10 sq mi (8.0 km2)
Population 11,600 
• Density 3,742/sq mi (1,445/km2)
OS grid reference SU6089
• London 44 miles (71 km)
Civil parish
  • Wallingford
District
Shire county
Region
Country England
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Post town Wallingford
Postcode district OX10
Dialling code 01491
Police Thames Valley
Fire Oxfordshire
Ambulance South Central
EU Parliament South East England
UK Parliament
  • Didcot and Wantage
Website Wallingford Town Council
List of places
UK
England
Oxfordshire
51°35′56″N 1°07′30″W / 51.599°N 1.125°W / 51.599; -1.125

Wallingford is a historic market town and civil parish located on the River Thames in South Oxfordshire, England. It's about 12 miles (19 km) north of Reading and 13 miles (21 km) south of Oxford. Even though it was historically part of Berkshire, it's now in Oxfordshire for local government since 1974. In 2011, about 11,600 people lived here.

Wallingford has played a big part in English history. In 1066, William the Conqueror came through here, leading to the building of Wallingford Castle. The town and castle were important during the Middle Ages. The Treaty of Wallingford, which ended a civil war called The Anarchy, was signed here. After a period of decline, Wallingford became important again during the English Civil War. It was the last place in Berkshire to support the King before it surrendered. Later, Oliver Cromwell ordered the castle to be destroyed.

Today, Wallingford is a busy market town. In the town centre, you'll find a market square with a war memorial and the Wallingford Town Hall. There are many shops and historic inns. While it once had 14 churches, now there are three old churches, a modern Roman Catholic church, and several other places of worship.

What's in a Name?

The name Wallingford first appeared as Wælingford in 821. It was also called Welingaford around 891 and Walingeford in 1086. People have debated what the name means for a long time.

Some believe it comes from an older British name, meaning "ford at the old fort." A "ford" is a shallow place in a river where you can cross. Others think it means "Ford of the Welsh people," referring to the ancient British Celts.

Wallingford's Story

Early Days

Wallingford castle ruins
Ruins in the Wallingford Castle Gardens

Wallingford grew up around an important place to cross the River Thames. We know Romans were here because of old coins and pottery found. The Anglo-Saxons built the first settlement. Wallingford was a strong, fortified town in Wessex and even made its own royal coins. King Alfred the Great built strong earth walls around it in the 800s to protect against Vikings. You can still see these old defences today. Wallingford became the main town of Berkshire.

Medieval Times

When William the Conqueror invaded in 1066, a local lord named Wigod let William's army into Wallingford. This helped William cross the Thames easily. It was here that Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury, gave up to William. This helped William become king. Wallingford was important because it was the lowest point on the river where you could cross easily. William soon built Wallingford Castle to control the area. In 1086, Wallingford was one of the biggest towns in England.

Wallingford Priory

Wallingford Priory was a Benedictine priory (a type of monastery) built around 1097. It was located where the Bull Croft park is today. Monks from St Albans Abbey came to live there. Famous people like the mathematician Richard of Wallingford and the writer John of Wallingford came from this priory.

The Anarchy and King John

Wallingford was a safe place for Empress Matilda during the civil war called The Anarchy. This war started after her father, Henry I, died. After Oxford Castle fell in 1141, Matilda escaped to Wallingford. Wallingford Castle was attacked many times but never captured. The Treaty of Wallingford, which ended the war, was signed here in 1153.

In 1155, Wallingford received a Royal Charter from King Henry II. This was only the second town in England to get one!

Later, Prince John (who would become King John) took over Wallingford Castle in 1189 during a revolt against his brother, King Richard I. The rebellion failed, and John had to give the castle back. When John became king in 1199, he made the castle bigger and stronger.

Town Decline

Wallingford became less important from the mid-1200s. Its size and population shrank. The Black Death plague in 1343 hit the town hard. The number of churches dropped from eleven to just four by the 1400s. The castle also started to fall apart, with stones being taken to fix Windsor Castle.

A main road from London to Gloucestershire used to go through Wallingford, which helped the town's trade. But when a new bridge was built at Abingdon, the road was changed. This meant less traffic and trade for Wallingford, causing its economy to decline.

Catherine of Valois and Owen Tudor

In 1422, Catherine of Valois, the widowed Queen of Henry V, was given Wallingford and its castle. Catherine lived there with her son, Henry VI. While at Wallingford, Catherine secretly married Owen Tudor. Their grandson, Henry VII, later became king and started the Tudor Dynasty.

Tudor Times

One of the last times Wallingford was used as a royal home was in 1518. King Henry VIII didn't like it much and wanted to move on. The priory was closed in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey. Henry VIII also took control of Wallingford and its castle in 1540. He preferred to use materials from Wallingford Castle to improve his own castle at Windsor. This continued under later Tudor monarchs like Edward VI, Mary I, and Elizabeth I.

English Civil War

King Charles 1 and Queen Henrietta Maria
King Charles I and Queen Henrietta Maria
Colonel Thomas Blagge by English School
Colonel Thomas Blagge

During the English Civil War, keeping Wallingford Castle in good repair was very important for the Royalists (supporters of the King). Their main base was in Oxford, so Wallingford, which controlled the area to the south, was a key spot. In 1643, Colonel Thomas Blagge was given permission by King Charles I to collect money to fix the castle.

In 1643, some Parliamentary officials came to Wallingford to meet the King. Blagge met them, but he was not very friendly. He even sent soldiers to escort them as if they were prisoners. The King and Queen visited Wallingford together for the last time in October 1643. By May 1644, the war was going badly for the Royalists in Berkshire. The Parliamentarians took Abingdon, and the Royalist soldiers there retreated to Wallingford.

After the Second Battle of Newbury in 1644, King Charles I retreated through Wallingford to Oxford. Oliver Cromwell was annoyed that he missed a chance to capture the King here. This led Cromwell to create his famous New Model Army.

The Siege of Wallingford

The first attack on Wallingford was in 1645, but the town's defences were too strong. By late 1645, the King's side was losing the war. Wallingford, Faringdon, and Donnington were the only places still loyal to the King in Berkshire. The siege of Wallingford began on May 4, 1646, led by General Thomas Fairfax.

Even after Oxford fell in June, Colonel Thomas Blagge and his soldiers bravely held Wallingford. Blagge refused to surrender without the King's direct order. He even threatened to burn the town if the Parliamentarians attacked. The Parliamentarians decided a full attack would be too costly. They also didn't want to make Wallingford a symbol of suffering for the Royalist cause.

By July, the King had surrendered to the Scottish Army, and Wallingford was the last Royalist stronghold in Berkshire. Blagge knew there would be no help. His soldiers were starving, and he faced mutiny. He had to restart talks. On July 22, 1646, the terms for Wallingford's surrender were agreed. General Fairfax respected Blagge's bravery. Blagge and his soldiers were allowed to leave with their weapons and belongings. However, Blagge had to surrender the castle early on July 27 because of a mutiny.

Castle Destruction

After the war, there was still unrest in the country. Oliver Cromwell worried that Wallingford Castle could be used against him again. So, on November 17, 1652, it was decided that the castle should be "demolished." Materials from the castle were used to improve Windsor Castle and to repair St Mary-le-More Church.

Georgian Era

Sir William Blackstone, a famous English lawyer and judge, lived in Wallingford. He built a house called Castle Priory. He is best known for writing Commentaries on the Laws of England, which influenced the American Constitution. Sir William died in Wallingford in 1780 and is buried in St Peter's Church.

By the late 1700s, Wallingford was known as a "rotten borough." This meant it had very few voters but still sent two MPs to Parliament. This was changed in 1832, and the town's voting area was made larger.

Modern Times

On September 9, 1944, a Halifax bomber plane caught fire over Wallingford. The pilot, 23-year-old Flying Officer John Archibald Wilding, and his flight engineer, 22-year-old Sergeant John Francis Andrew, stayed with the plane. They steered it away from the town, crashing into fields and saving many lives. They are remembered with a memorial in Wallingford and a Canadian flag flown over the Town Hall every year on September 9.

The malting industry, which was important in Wallingford for hundreds of years, ended in 2001 when Paul's Malt was demolished. At one time, there were at least 17 malting houses in the town.

Famous Places and Buildings

Wallingford Bridge

Wallingford Bridge - geograph.org.uk - 4794537
Wallingford Bridge

Wallingford Bridge is an old stone bridge over the River Thames. It connects Wallingford to Crowmarsh Gifford. Before the bridge, people crossed the river at a shallow "ford." William the Conqueror used this ford in 1066. The first mention of a bridge was in 1141. The first stone bridge was likely built by Richard, 1st Earl of Cornwall, in the 1200s.

Major repairs happened in 1530 using stone from the old Wallingford Priory. During the Civil War siege in 1646, four arches were removed to add a drawbridge. These were later replaced with wood until 1751. After a flood, three arches were rebuilt from 1810–1812. The street lights on the bridge were made in Wallingford.

Wallingford Castle

Wallingford Castle Gardens - geograph.org.uk - 1295139
Wallingford Castle

Wallingford Castle was a very important medieval castle. It was built in the 1000s and became one of the strongest royal castles in the 1100s and 1200s. During The Anarchy, Empress Matilda and her son, the future King Henry II, stayed here. The Treaty of Wallingford was signed at the castle, helping to end the civil war. For the next two centuries, it was a luxurious castle used by royalty.

After Henry VIII stopped using it as a royal home, the castle began to fall apart. It was made strong again during the English Civil War and was a Royalist stronghold led by Colonel Thomas Blagge. General Thomas Fairfax besieged it in 1645. After 16 weeks, the castle finally surrendered in July 1646.

Because of the risk of more fighting, Oliver Cromwell decided to destroy the castle in 1652. It was almost completely pulled down. Today, the castle grounds are open to the public. You can see the remains of the walls and the big mound (motte) where the main tower stood.

St Peter's Church

St Peters across the river - geograph.org.uk - 1059396
St Peter's Church

An earlier church on this site was destroyed in 1646 during the Civil War siege. The current St Peter's Church was started in 1763. A tall spire was added in 1776–77. Sir William Blackstone, the famous lawyer, was very interested in the spire and paid for the clock face. The church is no longer used for regular services but is cared for by the Churches Conservation Trust. Sir William Blackstone is buried here.

St Mary-le-More Church

St Mary-le-More - geograph.org.uk - 782867
St Mary-le-More's church

The Church of St Mary-le-More is in a key spot in the town square. Records show a church here from 1077. The bell tower was originally from the 1100s, but its top parts were rebuilt using stone from Wallingford Castle after it was destroyed by Oliver Cromwell. The main part of the church was rebuilt in 1854.

The church has beautiful stained glass from 1856. The pulpit was made in 1888. The church tower has ten bells that can be rung.

St Leonard's Church

St. Leonard's Church - geograph.org.uk - 642133
St Leonard’s Church

St Leonard’s is the oldest church in Wallingford. There has been a church on this spot since Saxon times, possibly as early as the 500s. You can still see unique Saxon stonework in the walls. Parliamentary soldiers used the church as barracks during the 1656 siege, causing a lot of damage. It was repaired and reopened in 1700.

The church was rebuilt in 1849, but much of the original Saxon building was kept. Inside, there are four angel murals painted in 1889 by the famous artist George Dunlop Leslie. The church is now part of the St Mary-le-More Parish.

Wallingford War Memorial

Wallingford war memorial - geograph.org.uk - 950101
Wallingford War Memorial

The Wallingford war memorial was designed by Edward Guy Dawber and William Honeybone. It was revealed in 1921. It lists 81 names from the First World War and 36 names from the Second World War. The memorial is a Grade II listed building, meaning it's historically important.

Kinecroft

The Kinecroft is a large open area of about seven acres. On its south and west sides, you can still see ancient Saxon earthworks. These were part of the town's defences when it was an important fortified town in Wessex. Today, the Kinecroft hosts events like Bonfire Night, BunkFest, the Vintage Car Rally, and the Wallingford Festival of Cycling.

Bull Croft

The Bull Croft is another open area inside the town's old Saxon defences. In Saxon times, a church stood here. Later, it became part of the Wallingford Priory. After the Priory was pulled down in 1525, the area was used for farming. In 1912, the Bull Croft was given to the town to be a public park. It now has a children's play area, tennis courts, and football pitches.

Town Hall

Wallingford Town Hall - geograph.org.uk - 950097
Wallingford Town Hall

Wallingford Town Hall was built in 1670. It's on the south side of the market square. The main hall and council rooms are upstairs. The building is used by the Town Council for meetings and events. The Mayor uses the balcony for annual events. Downstairs, there's the town's Tourist Information Office. Before 1856, the open area under the hall was used for the town's corn market.

Corn Exchange

Wallingford Corn Exchange - geograph.org.uk - 1295112
The Corn Exchange

The Corn Exchange was built in 1856. The iron arches supporting its roof were made locally. After the Second World War, it was used as a government office before becoming unused. In 1975, a theatre group called the Sinodun Players bought it. They dedicated it to Agatha Christie, who was their president.

Winterbrook House

Winterbrook House-geograph-1848557-by-Bill-Nicholls
Winterbrook House

Winterbrook House was the home of the famous author Agatha Christie and her husband Max Mallowan from 1934 until her death in 1976. Many believe she based her character Miss Marple's home, Danemead, on Winterbrook House. The house is privately owned and is part of the Agatha Christie Trail.

Bronze statue of Agatha Christie at Wallingford
Bronze statue of Agatha Christie at Wallingford

A bronze statue of Agatha Christie was placed in front of the Wallingford Museum in September 2023. It shows her sitting on a bench, holding a book.

Wallingford Museum

Wallingford Museum has collections about the town's history. It is located in the grade II listed Flint House on the High Street. Flint House is an old timber-framed house from the mid-1500s. It faces the Kinecroft, which has Anglo-Saxon defences from the 800s. The museum shows displays about archaeology, Wallingford Castle, and the town in medieval and Victorian times.

How Wallingford is Governed

Wallingford has three levels of local government:

  • Wallingford Town Council: This is the local council for the town. They meet at the Town Hall.
  • South Oxfordshire District Council: This council covers a wider area.
  • Oxfordshire County Council: This is the largest council, covering the whole county.

Wallingford was a "borough" (a town with special rights) since at least 1086. It got its first official charter in 1156. In 1974, Wallingford became part of Oxfordshire for local government. The Wallingford Town Council was then created.

Voting for Parliament

Since 2024, Wallingford is part of the Didcot and Wantage constituency. This is the area that votes for a Member of Parliament to represent them in the UK Parliament. Wallingford used to have its own constituency until 1885.

Wallingford's Location and Weather

Climate

Wallingford has a maritime climate, like the rest of the British Isles. This means it has cool summers and mild winters. A weather station nearby has been collecting data since 1961. Temperatures have ranged from -21.0°C (-5.8°F) in January 1982 to 35.2°C (95.4°F) in July 2006.

Climate data for Wallingford 67m asl, 1971–2000, Extremes 1960– (Sunshine Benson 1961–2000)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 14.8
(58.6)
17.9
(64.2)
22.2
(72.0)
26.8
(80.2)
29.0
(84.2)
33.9
(93.0)
35.2
(95.4)
35.1
(95.2)
29.4
(84.9)
25.0
(77.0)
17.9
(64.2)
15.2
(59.4)
35.2
(95.4)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 7.0
(44.6)
7.5
(45.5)
10.2
(50.4)
12.7
(54.9)
16.6
(61.9)
19.5
(67.1)
22.3
(72.1)
22.0
(71.6)
18.6
(65.5)
14.3
(57.7)
10.0
(50.0)
7.8
(46.0)
14.0
(57.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 1.2
(34.2)
1.0
(33.8)
2.6
(36.7)
3.8
(38.8)
6.7
(44.1)
9.6
(49.3)
11.9
(53.4)
11.8
(53.2)
9.7
(49.5)
6.8
(44.2)
3.5
(38.3)
2.1
(35.8)
5.9
(42.6)
Record low °C (°F) −21.0
(−5.8)
−13.2
(8.2)
−11.1
(12.0)
−6.6
(20.1)
−3.3
(26.1)
−2.2
(28.0)
2.0
(35.6)
1.1
(34.0)
−2.8
(27.0)
−5.5
(22.1)
−9.6
(14.7)
−17.5
(0.5)
−21
(−6)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 56.36
(2.22)
38.54
(1.52)
43.76
(1.72)
46.54
(1.83)
50.09
(1.97)
52.66
(2.07)
38.44
(1.51)
53.64
(2.11)
56.71
(2.23)
58.98
(2.32)
57.91
(2.28)
61.46
(2.42)
615.09
(24.2)
Mean monthly sunshine hours 52.7 67.8 114.7 150.0 198.4 201.0 210.8 192.2 147.0 102.3 66.0 46.5 1,549.4
Source 1: Royal Dutch Meteorological Institute
Source 2: RMets

Getting Around Wallingford

River Transport

The River Thames has been important for transport for centuries. Wallingford grew partly because of it. Coal used to come from the northeast of England by ship to London, then by barge up the river. In 1789, the Oxford Canal reached Oxford, making it easier to get coal from the Midlands.

A small lock and weir called Chalmore Lock were built in 1838 but later removed. This created the longest clear stretch of the upper river, which is great for rowing. The Oxford University Boat Club even built a boathouse here in 2006. Besides the old Wallingford Bridge, a new bridge was built at Winterbrook in 1993 for the A4130 bypass road.

Train Travel

The closest regular train station to Wallingford is Cholsey, about three miles away. The Cholsey and Wallingford Railway is a heritage railway that runs on the old line between Cholsey and Wallingford.

The main train line passes south of Wallingford. A station called Wallingford Road opened in 1840, but it was far from the town. In 1866, the Wallingford and Watlington Railway (W&WR) opened a new station in Wallingford. The plan was to extend the line to Watlington, but a financial crisis stopped it. The line was sold to the Great Western Railway in 1872. British Railways stopped passenger services in 1959 and goods in 1965. The line was then saved as the Cholsey and Wallingford Railway for tourist services.

Bus Services

All bus services in Wallingford are run by Thames Travel. Bus 33 goes every hour from Henley-on-Thames to Abingdon. The X40 bus runs every 30 minutes between Oxford and Reading, stopping in Wallingford.

Wallingford's Economy

Castle Street and High Street corner, Wallingford - geograph.org.uk - 62137
Castle Street and High Street corner
Town Centre - Retail - geograph.org.uk - 12273
Waitrose branch

Historically, Wallingford was a trading centre for animals and corn. This changed after the bridge at Abingdon was built. In the 1700s, the town became known for making iron and machinery. The brewing industry was also important, with two breweries and 17 malting houses. This ended in 2001 when Paul's Malt was demolished.

The Lamb Arcade used to be an inn and is now an Antiques Arcade. Champions hardware store has been open since 1869. In 2005, Waitrose opened a new, larger supermarket in the town centre. A Lidl supermarket opened in 2019. The only bank left in town is the Nationwide Building Society.

Most jobs are at the Hithercroft Trading Estate, which started in the 1970s. Rowse Honey, the UK's largest honey maker, has been in Wallingford since 1987. Other big employers include the Royal Mail, HR Wallingford, Centre for Ecology and Hydrology, and Fugro. To the southeast, you'll find the headquarters for CABI, an agricultural organization.

Sports and Fun

Hithercroft sports facility - geograph.org.uk - 1149312
Wallingford Sports Park

Many sports clubs are at the Wallingford Sports Park. Wallingford Hockey Club started in 1894. Wallingford Town F.C. is the local football club, founded in 1922. They play at the Sports Centre.

Wallingford Rugby Club moved to the Hithercroft sports ground in 1997. They have men's and women's teams. There are two Squash clubs in Wallingford. Pétanque Wallingford and Wallingford Castle Archers are also based at the Sports Park.

Rowing

All together now - geograph.org.uk - 1117509
Wallingford Rowing Club

The Wallingford Regatta is a big rowing competition. It used to be held on the Thames near Wallingford, which has the longest clear stretch of river between locks. In 1949, the regatta committee started the Wallingford Rowing Club. In 2001, the Regatta moved to Dorney Lake near Windsor for more space. It's now the largest one-day rowing regatta in the UK. The new Oxford University Boat Club opened in Wallingford in 2008.

Cycling Festival

The Wallingford Festival of Cycling started in 2015. In 2018, it was one of the biggest cycling events in the UK, with over 7,500 people expected to attend. The 2015 event was even used for filming an episode of the TV show Midsomer Murders.

Music Festivals

Osibisa
Osibisa
BunkFest
Dancing in the Market Square, Wallingford, at BunkFest

BunkFest started in 2002 and is now one of the largest free multi-day festivals in the UK. Over 25,000 people attended in 2017. It features folk music, dance displays, a beer festival, and the local Bunk steam railway. It's a non-profit festival for all ages.

RugFest is Wallingford's summer music festival at the Wallingford Sport Park. It started in 2008.

Vintage Car Rally

The Wallingford vintage car rally started in 2002. It takes place on the Kinecroft in mid-May. In 2018, over 400 vintage cars were on display. The event raises money for local charities.

Local News

Local news and TV shows come from BBC South and ITV Meridian. You can get TV signals from the Oxford TV transmitter.

Wallingford has local radio stations like BBC Radio Oxford (95.2 FM), Heart South (102.6 FM), Jack FM (106.4 FM), and Wallingford Radio (107.3 FM), which is a community station. Local newspapers are the Herald Series and Oxfordshire Guardian.

Schools in Wallingford

Wallingford has several primary schools: St John's, Fir Tree (a junior school), and St Nicholas (an infants' school). Other primary schools in nearby villages also serve the area.

Wallingford School

Wallingford School is the main secondary school, for students aged 11 to 18. It continues the history of Wallingford Grammar School, which was founded in 1659. Most students from Fir Tree and St John's go on to Wallingford School. It also takes students from nearby primary schools like Crowmarsh, Brightwell-cum-Sotwell, Cholsey, and Warborough.

Twin Towns

Wallingford is twinned with:

Wallingford also has a friendly link with:

Famous People from Wallingford

Many interesting people have lived in or been connected to Wallingford:

  • Jonathan Bailey, actor
  • Kevin Bailey, poet
  • Evelyn Barbirolli, oboist
  • William Blackstone, legal writer
  • Charlie Brooker, comedy writer and presenter
  • John Buckley, sculptor
  • Agatha Christie, mystery writer, lived in Winterbrook House
  • Paul Conroy, music executive
  • William Henry Davies (entrepreneur), Toronto meatpacker
  • John Dreyer, football player
  • Gary Elkins, football player
  • Edgar Field, England footballer
  • Peter Flannery, playwright and screenwriter
  • Dulcie Gray, actress
  • James Hayllar, Mary Hayllar et al family of artists
  • Geoffrey Keen, actor
  • Peter R. Kiff, sedimentologist and chemist
  • George Dunlop Leslie, artist
  • Max Mallowan, archaeologist, lived with Agatha Christie
  • James H. McClure, mystery writer
  • Ann Packer, Olympic athlete
  • Zac Purchase, Olympic athlete
  • Edmund Charles Rawlings, politician
  • Moses Roper, former slave
  • Paul Rotha, documentary filmmaker
  • Gladys Bronwyn Stern, novelist
  • Simon Watson Taylor, actor and translator
  • Thomas Tusser, poet
  • John of Wallingford (died 1214), monk and abbot
  • John of Wallingford (died 1258), monk and chronicler
  • Richard of Wallingford, mathematician and clockmaker
  • Richard of Wallingford, Peasants' Revolt organiser
  • William of Wallingford, builder
  • Rex Warner, writer
  • Peter Cathcart Wason, psychologist
  • Charles West, mystery writer

Members of Parliament

Wallingford used to have its own MPs. This changed over time. Some notable MPs, who often didn't live in Wallingford, included:

Nearby Places

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See also

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