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San Joaquin Valley
California's Central Valley.JPG
San Joaquin Valley
California San Joaquin counties.svg
A map of the counties encompassing the San Joaquin Valley ecoregion
Geography
Location California, United States
Population centers Stockton, Mountain House, Tulare, Porterville, Modesto, Turlock, Merced, Fresno, Visalia, Bakersfield, Clovis, Hanford, Madera, Tracy, Lodi, Galt, Manteca and Ceres.
Borders on Sierra Nevada (east), Sacramento–San Joaquin River Delta (north), Coast Range, San Francisco Bay (west), Tehachapi Mountains (south)
Traversed by Interstate 5, State Route 99
Rivers San Joaquin River
San Joaquin River watershed
The San Joaquin River and its tributaries, showing the extent of the valley

The San Joaquin Valley (pronounced SAN wah-KEEN) is the southern part of California's large Central Valley. It's famous for being a huge farming area, often called a "breadbasket." This valley grows a lot of the food for California and beyond.

The San Joaquin Valley covers parts of nine counties in Northern and Central California. These include all of San Joaquin and Kings counties. It also includes most of Stanislaus, Merced, and Fresno counties. Plus, parts of Madera and Tulare counties are here, along with most of Kern County. Even though much of the valley is farmland, it has four big cities: Stockton/Modesto, Fresno, Porterville/Visalia, and Bakersfield.

San Joaquin Valley: California's Rich Heart

Exploring the Valley's Landscape

Map of the San Joaquin, Sacramento and Tulare Valleys 1873
An 1873 map shows Tulare Lake before it shrank due to farming

The San Joaquin Valley is the southern half of California's Central Valley. It stretches from the Sacramento–San Joaquin River Delta in the north to the Tehachapi Mountains in the south. To the west are the California coastal ranges, and to the east are the Sierra Nevada mountains.

The valley has two main river systems. The northern part, called the San Joaquin Basin, is where the San Joaquin River and its smaller rivers flow. All this water eventually goes northwest into the Sacramento–San Joaquin River Delta and then out to the Pacific Ocean. The southern part is the Tulare Basin. This area used to have a large body of water called Tulare Lake. Rivers like the Tule River and Kern River fed it. However, much of this water is now used for farming, so the lake is mostly dry today.

How the Valley Formed Over Time

Millerton Lake 1 (cropped)
Millerton Lake, supplied by the Madera Canal and Friant-Kern Canal

The San Joaquin Valley started forming about 66 million years ago. For a long time, ocean water would flood different parts of the valley. About 5 million years ago, the land began to rise, closing off the ocean connections.

Later, about 2 million years ago, ice ages caused the valley to fill with fresh water, creating huge lakes. Lake Corcoran was one of the last big lakes, about 700,000 years ago. More recently, there were three major lakes in the southern valley: Tulare Lake, Buena Vista Lake, and Kern Lake. By the late 1800s and 1900s, water was diverted for farming. This caused these lakes to dry up. Today, only small parts of Buena Vista Lake remain.

Weather and Water in the Valley

The San Joaquin Valley has very hot and dry summers. Winters are usually mild, but often have thick tule fog. The rainy season typically runs from November to April.

Since the early 2010s, the valley has faced a serious and ongoing megadrought. This drought affects both people and wildlife. For example, farmers have had to change how they grow crops.

Because of increased water pumping from underground, groundwater levels have dropped a lot. In some places, the land has even sunk several inches. This sinking, called subsidence, can damage wells, roads, and other structures. It also means the underground water storage might be permanently reduced.

The National Weather Service has an office in Hanford. They provide weather forecasts and climate information for the San Joaquin Valley.

A Look at Early Inhabitants and Cultures

The First People of the Valley

The San Joaquin Valley was originally home to the Yokuts and Miwok peoples. The first European to explore the valley was Pedro Fages in 1772.

Today, several federally recognized tribes live in the valley. The Tejon Indian Tribe of California includes Kitanemuk, Yokuts, and Chumash people. Their traditional lands were in the southern San Joaquin Valley and nearby mountains. They are now based in Wasco and Bakersfield, California.

The Picayune Rancheria of Chukchansi Indians of California are Chukchansi or Foothills Yokuts people. They are located in Madera County. The Santa Rosa Rancheria belongs to the Tachi Yokuts tribe. It is located southeast of Lemoore, California.

A Mix of Cultures: People Who Call the Valley Home

The San Joaquin Valley is a vibrant place with many different cultures. People from all over the world have made it their home.

  • Latinos and Mexicans: Many people in the valley have Latino and Mexican heritage. For a long time, most farmworkers in the region have been of Mexican ancestry. In the 1960s and 1970s, groups like the United Farm Workers, led by César Chávez, worked hard to improve conditions and fair treatment for farmworkers. This movement brought a lot of attention to workers' rights.
  • European Groups: The valley has many communities with European roots. For example, there are more Azorean Portuguese people here than in the Azores islands! You can find Assyrians in Turlock, Dutch in Ripon, and Croats in Delano. Kingsburg is known for its Swedish heritage. Other groups include Portuguese, Germans, Armenians, Basques, and "Okies" from the Midwest and Southern United States.
  • Asian Americans: The valley also has a large and diverse Asian American population. Many are from Punjab (India and Pakistan), the Philippines, and Southeast Asia (like Laos and Cambodia).
    • Punjabi is the third most spoken language in the valley. The first Sikh temple (Gurdwara) was founded in Stockton in 1915.
    • After the 1960s, many people from Punjab, Gujarat, and Southern India settled here.
    • In the late 1970s and 80s, many immigrants from Indochina (like Hmong, Laotian, Cambodian, and Vietnamese) came to the valley. Fresno has the second-largest Hmong population in the U.S. Stockton has a large percentage of Cambodian Americans.
    • Filipino Americans are concentrated in Delano and Lathrop. Stockton also has a strong Filipino history.
  • African Americans: Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park marks the site of the only California town founded, financed, and governed by African Americans. It was started in 1908 by Lt. Colonel Allen Allensworth and others. They wanted to improve life for African Americans. The town eventually faced challenges, including water shortages.
  • Okies and Arkies: During the Great Depression, many families from states like Oklahoma and Arkansas moved to the San Joaquin Valley. They were often farmers who lost their land due to drought and economic hardship. They loaded their belongings into cars and drove west, seeking new opportunities. Many later moved to cities like Los Angeles and San Francisco for jobs during World War II. Some stayed in places like Bakersfield and Oildale, which became important for oil production. Country music stars like Buck Owens and Merle Haggard came from Bakersfield.

The Valley's Economy: Farming and More

Growing Our Food: Agriculture in the Valley

Gwsanjoaquin
Signs on a pole show approximate land surface altitude in 1925, 1955, and 1977, illustrating land sinking.

The San Joaquin Valley is a huge agricultural powerhouse. In 2007, it produced almost 13% of California's farm goods by value. While it's called a "breadbasket," the valley grows more fruits, vegetables, and nuts than grains for bread.

Major crops include grapes (for wine, tables, and raisins), cotton, almonds, pistachios, citrus, and many vegetables. Other successful crops are walnuts, oranges, peaches, garlic, and tomatoes. Certain areas are famous for specific crops. For example, Stockton grows most of the asparagus eaten in the United States. Fresno County is the biggest producer of raisins.

Raising cattle and sheep is also very important to the valley's economy. In recent years, dairy farming has grown a lot. Many dairy farmers moved their herds to Kings, Tulare, and Kern counties.

Between 1990 and 2004, over 70,000 acres of farmland were developed into urban areas. As of 2022, more than 5 million acres of the valley are still used for agriculture.

A drought in the early 2010s led to changes in farming. Farmers started using smart irrigation systems and treated wastewater. Many also switched from growing cotton to other crops, especially almonds.

Energy from the Earth: Oil and Gas

NorthernSanJoaquinValleyOilGasFields
Map of Northern San Joaquin Valley Oil and Gas Fields
SouthernSanJoaquinValleyOilGasFields
Map of Southern San Joaquin Valley Oil and Gas Fields

California is a major oil-producing state, and the San Joaquin Valley is its main oil production area. You can find oil wells scattered throughout the region. Huge extraction sites, like those near Lost Hills and Taft, have many pumps working. The Midway-Sunset Oil Field is one of the largest in the United States.

A major oil refinery in Bakersfield was sold in 2005 and later shut down in 2009.

The oil and gas fields in Kern County have a lot of oil reserves. Six fields in the San Joaquin Valley each hold over 100 million barrels of oil.

Other Important Jobs and Industries

Because of its size and the need for jobs, the state has built several correctional facilities in the area. These facilities provide many jobs for local residents. Examples include those in Corcoran, Avenal, and Tracy.

The main military base in the region is Naval Air Station Lemoore. This large air base is located southwest of Hanford. Its importance has grown over the years. Another base, Castle Air Force Base near Atwater, closed in the 1990s.

How the Valley is Changing Today

The real estate boom that started in the late 1990s brought big changes to the San Joaquin Valley. As housing costs rose in coastal cities like Los Angeles and San Francisco, many families and businesses moved inland.

Cities like Stockton, Modesto, and Tracy are now home to many people who commute to jobs in San Francisco and Silicon Valley. Bakersfield has also seen many new residents and businesses from the Los Angeles area. Large companies like Wal-Mart and Amazon have built huge distribution centers here. This is because of easy access to major highways and lower local wages. The valley continues to become more connected with the rest of California.

Getting Around and Staying Connected

Roads, Rails, and Airports

Interstate 5 Southbound near Derrick Ave
The valley as seen from Interstate 5, looking south near Derrick Avenue in Fresno County

Two major highways run almost the entire length of the San Joaquin Valley. Interstate 5 (I-5) runs along the western side, usually bypassing the big cities. State Route 99 (SR 99) goes through the main population centers. Both highways meet at the southern end of the valley, heading towards Los Angeles. There are ongoing efforts to upgrade SR 99 to an Interstate highway.

State Route 58 (SR 58) is an important route for truckers. It connects the valley to places outside California, avoiding the busy Los Angeles area. Other key highways include State Route 46 and State Route 41, which link the valley to the California Central Coast. State Route 152 connects Silicon Valley with its growing towns in the valley.

FAT terminal building, 11-2013
Fresno Yosemite International Airport terminal

The main airport in the San Joaquin Valley is Fresno Yosemite International Airport. It offers flights to major U.S. cities and Mexico. Other airports in the region include Meadows Field Airport near Bakersfield, Stockton Metropolitan Airport, and Merced Municipal Airport.

SanJoaquinmerced
San Joaquins train at Merced station

The Gold Runner train service carries passengers between Bakersfield and Stockton. It also has routes to Sacramento or Oakland. Train service does not go south of Bakersfield due to busy tracks. Passengers must take buses for that part of the journey. The San Joaquin Valley is also part of the planned California High-Speed Rail project. This project will connect Bakersfield to Merced with fast trains.

Freight trains are operated by BNSF Railway, Union Pacific Railroad, and San Joaquin Valley Railroad.

Powering the Valley

The Western Area Power Administration helps provide electricity to the valley. They manage their own equipment and work to keep power lines clear.

Keeping the Valley Healthy

Understanding Air Quality

PM 25 Kern County Bakersfield over time
PM 2.5 pollution over time

The San Joaquin Valley sometimes has some of the worst air pollution in the United States. This is because it's surrounded by mountains, which can trap smog. Strong winds that would normally clear the air are rare.

Sources of air pollution include vehicle exhaust, farming activities, and wildfires. Diesel and gasoline vehicles release gases that can mix with ammonia from farm animals. This creates tiny particles that make up more than half of the valley's pollution on bad days. During cooler seasons, a layer of warm air can trap pollutants close to the ground. This is called a temperature inversion.

The valley has been called an "extreme non-attainment zone" by the Environmental Protection Agency. This means the air quality is often unhealthy.

  • Impact on Crops: The valley's rich soil helps grow many crops like grapes, oranges, and nuts. However, unhealthy air levels can damage these crops. The California Air Resources Board estimates that the San Joaquin Valley loses about one billion dollars each year due to air pollution harming crops. Sometimes, farmers burn crop waste, which adds to the air pollution.
  • Impact on Health: The valley often has high levels of ozone, especially on hot days. Kids who play outdoors in summer can be at higher risk for health issues like asthma because their lungs are still developing. About one in six children in this region suffer from asthma due to poor air quality. Older people are also vulnerable and can experience heart problems. Reports show that residents here have high rates of asthma and related symptoms. The American Lung Association links the valley's air pollution to about 1,300 early deaths each year. It also causes many emergency room visits and lost days of school or work.

Protecting Our Drinking Water

Turlock water basin
Water quality in public supply wells of Turlock in 2006

The San Joaquin Valley is a major farming area. Farmers use a lot of water and fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers. Sometimes, extra nitrogen from these fertilizers can seep into the underground water, called groundwater. This often happens as nitrates.

Between the 1950s and 1980s, as fertilizer use increased, nitrate levels in groundwater rose significantly. Fertilizers are the biggest source of nitrates in the groundwater. Large farms and dairy herds contribute to this. Many rural communities in the valley rely on wells for their drinking water.

Nitrates in drinking water can be a concern. They can interfere with the blood's ability to carry oxygen. This is especially risky for pregnant women, infants under 6 months, and young children. High nitrate levels can cause a serious condition in babies called "blue-baby syndrome," where they don't get enough oxygen.

For example, in 2006, samples from wells in Tulare County showed that 40% had nitrate levels above the safe limit. Filters can help, but they need to be installed correctly and replaced often, which can be expensive for families.

  • Farming Practices: Farmers have increased crop production to meet demand. Using more fertilizers, including nitrates, helps crops grow. However, not all the nitrogen is used by plants, and some can wash into the groundwater.
  • Dairy Farms: Large dairy farms also contribute to nitrogen contamination. Manure from cattle contains nitrogen. While manure can be used as fertilizer, if not managed carefully, it can lead to nitrates in the water.
  • Possible Solutions: One alternative to using manure-based fertilizers is composting. Composting can reduce nitrate levels, but it can be more expensive and time-consuming for farmers.

What is Valley Fever?

Valley Fever, also known as coccidioidomycosis, is a fungal infection. It's caused by breathing in tiny fungal spores from dust or dirt in the air. The fungus, Coccidioides immitis, lives in the soil. The San Joaquin Valley is one of the areas in the southwestern United States where this illness is common.

Cities and Towns of the San Joaquin Valley

Big Cities (Over 500,000 People)

Medium Cities (100,000 to 500,000 People)

Smaller Cities (20,000 to 100,000 People)

Towns (Under 20,000 People)

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Valle de San Joaquín para niños

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